tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-21432665799101102582024-03-05T14:24:37.536-08:00Relaxed Republic of the PhilippinesEco-tourist attractions. Multicultural setting. The Philippines has the best of both.Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.comBlogger26125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-29018274562244515422011-02-26T10:42:00.001-08:002014-09-12T20:44:05.679-07:00Southeastern Mindanao<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsPH4d1sTFEkYKDov31m3Fb37AWrkG3l5D5ULVnXuyT6BkTBH5NeFUYvIwekBegx4Y5eGSw3wdgo61lpFmdKEDXvGAOGh_PKq_zjMir3QMXgTjXkvjQkIRAv68l094bIdNT2r0HM3HFk/s1600/Sebu" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhQsPH4d1sTFEkYKDov31m3Fb37AWrkG3l5D5ULVnXuyT6BkTBH5NeFUYvIwekBegx4Y5eGSw3wdgo61lpFmdKEDXvGAOGh_PKq_zjMir3QMXgTjXkvjQkIRAv68l094bIdNT2r0HM3HFk/s320/Sebu" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5578234643757223090" style="cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 240px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 320px;" /></a><br />
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<b>Southern Exposure</b></div>
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...Sights and Adventure Beyond Davao</div>
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I keep coming back to these southern lands. They're different from the other places I've been to. For one, Mindanao's weather pattern is not the same as Luzon's. Some of its flora and fauna are truly endemic. I have long-suspected that the Philippines' best eco-tourism destinations are found in this island, especially in Davao and its surroundings. So for nearly a week, I visited some of the region's best spots. But it wasn't nearly enough, though.</div>
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<b>Our Local Niagara</b></div>
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I was told a number of times Tinuy-an Falls was the local counterpart of Canada's Niagara Falls. That was wrong, I thought. Tinuy-an is one of a kind. Most waterfalls plunge into a pool or river. The most gorgeous waterfalls are more than that; there's something poetic about the way the water descends or how the entire place looks like. That's the case with Tinuy-an. </div>
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Located in Bislig, Surigao del Sur, Tinuy-an waterfalls is about 20 kilometers away from the main road. Located in Barangay Burboanan, its nearby area is covered in coconut trees, falcata (a slender version of malunggay tree), mangium, and bay-ang (which is curious to look at because its branches and leaves are shaped like an inverted open umbrella). Lorelei Lim, Bislig's Tourism Officer, said that the flow of water in Tinuy-an isn't strong during the third quarter of the year because it's southeastern Mindanao's summer season. But that didn't make the view less attractive; a three-tiered waterfalls isn't a common sight anywhere else in the world. </div>
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At first, I stood close to the falls, which was about three meters long and nine meters wide. I kept staring at the gorgeous rock formation. Between the first and second falls was a stream approximately 100 meters long, where there's a wooden bridge. The left bank was the best spot to enjoy the second falls. I didn't cross the bridge just as yet as I wanted to explore the rest of the falls. The second falls was the tallest and most breathtaking. It was close to 14 meters high and nine meters wide. Water poured into a pool that had a depth of about nine meters. There was a stairway nearby leading to the third falls. What I saw was a diminutive canyon of sorts, which may be three meters high. As I took pictures, I noticed that the shallow water below the canyon seemed like a good place to frolic. I also walked to that point where I was a few steps away from the tip of the second falls. It was safe to stand there and the view below was quite awesome. </div>
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Moments later, I was at the left bank taking more pictures. I gazed around and thought it would be nice to stay longer to enjoy the falls and observe the verdant surrounds. But Lorelei wanted me to see another popular spot. I climbed up another stairway but this one was longer (271 steps to be exact). Ocean View Park has a restaurant that offers a vista of Bislig Bay. The establishment seemed to be located in a forested area; sounds of wild birds were heard while I munch on fish burger, the establishment's specialty. Several steps away is the International Doll House. It stores an impressive collection of dolls, which owners Werner and Ruelaine Williman bought during their overseas trips. The Barbie dolls were undoubtedly the main attraction, but Russia's Matryoshka dolls were my favorites. </div>
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I left Bislig the next day, thinking of Tinuy-an and wondering what I missed out on. </div>
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<b>Davao City's Outskirts</b></div>
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Sta. Cruz is located south of Davao City. It only takes an hour to get there by bus. Mount Apo, the country's highest peak, looks imposing from there. I was told that the municipality's main attraction are found near Apo, but I visit the other spots instead. </div>
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Pasig Island is a few kilometers away from Barangay Bato. The isle is so small its coastline can be circled in a few minutes. For beach huggers, Pasig can be their little paradise; its white-sand beach glistens on a sunny afternoon and on a cloudless day, they can sit and savor the sight of Mount Apo and Mount Matutum, an active volcano located in the neighboring province of South Cotabato. </div>
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Several kilometers away is the Sibulan River, which is renowned in Davao del Sur for its white water-tubing ride. It's really much like white water rafting, except that one rides on a rubber floating tube (locally known as salbabida) instead of a raft. The experience is like that on a roller coaster. I nearly rolled over, but I was so excited I had to take another joy ride. </div>
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This visit was also brief as I had to catch the first bus to South Cotabato the following day. </div>
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<b>San Pablo Meets Baguio</b></div>
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I expected the bus trip from Davao City to South Cotabato to last almost a day, but it turned out to be shorter. It was a bit humid when the Yellow Bus Line left Davao City. Several hours later, the climate became cooler as it the reached the municipality of Surallah. I boarded a jeep that brought me to Lake Sebu.</div>
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Local backpackers tout this town as a must-see in this part of southern Mindanao. It's also home to the T'bolis, one of the region's ethnic groups. Three lakes are found within these highlands. When I saw the first two, I first thought that I was looking at the seven lakes of San Pablo, Laguna. In fact, the biggest was nearly covered with fish cages. Only rows of souvenir stores selling T'boli clothing and handicrafts reminded me that I was far away from Laguna. </div>
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There was something beguiling about Lake Sebu. It might be the bouquets of huge bamboos lining up the road. Edna Kely, my guide during the visit, showed me something else - seven waterfalls are found nearby. It's a multi-step type of sight-seeing and the lake is the water source for the cascades. It took us about 15 minutes to reach the area where they were located. However, seeing all of them may take an entire day; it took a walk and a zip-line to glimpse three of them. </div>
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First Falls was about 12 meters high. It took us several minutes to hike from the entrance to this waterfalls. Vegetation nearly enveloped it, which made it alluring. Edna suggested the zip-line to see the next two falls. For P250, I got two chances to see cascades sparkling in the afternoon sun, rainbows and Mount Parker - another active volcano in South Cotabato. The were also zip-lines in other parts of the Philippines, but I had a feeling that only Lake Sebu offered this kind of marvelous sight while doing it. </div>
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After the thrilling rides, I wanted to get close to the second waterfalls. Dongon Falls was said to be the most attractive of the seven. Water runs along a semi-circular cliff that is about 60 meters tall. I've seen better falls, but Dongon's location - and the lovely sight of water spray - made it one more magical. Dusk would soon set in, so we cut the adventure short to see the lake. </div>
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Edna took me to Punta Isla and Monte Cielo Resort, two of Sebu's several resorts. Punta Isla is a good spot to observe the lake closely; tilapia and water lilies abound in its waters, but what I saw instead was a tranquil lake oozing with rustic charm. But it was in Monte Cielo, though, where I appreciated Lake Sebu better. It is perched on a slope overlooking the lake and the nearby mountain range. The view up there is stunning when the sun descends behind the mountains. William and Mayette Sy, who own and manage the resort, are there to make guests feel at home. </div>
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I was supposed to visit both places at sunrise, but I woke up late. I bet the view is dramatic, but there should be a next time. </div>
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<b>(First published in Zest Air Inflight Magazine on November 2010)</b></div>
Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-44214501909882781962011-02-20T15:44:00.001-08:002014-09-12T20:44:44.677-07:00Cagayan de Oro City and Camiguin Island<br />
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<b>Island-to-Highland Adventure</b></div>
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(Exploring the Adventure-Filled Island of Camiguin)</div>
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I'm obsessed with volcanoes and water. It started with Tagaytay; my family often went there when I was a kid. Taal Lake made an impact on me. I became curious about the sea and the other local volcanoes afterwards. I later found out that the country's most popular volcanic peaks are found in Luzon. </div>
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On my way to Butuan eight years ago, I first saw Hibok-Hibok Volcano. I was filled with longing; I wanted to set foot on Camiguin Island and explore its vicinity. That would happen eight years later.</div>
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<b>The River Wild</b></div>
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Tikoy Tan invited me to visit Camiguin. I first met her in San Juan, La Union, a few years ago. She and her friends have a passion for outdoor adventure. What could be a better way than traveling with them?</div>
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Everyone who wants to go to Camiguin must use Cagayan de Oro City in Misamis Oriental as a jump-off point. Upon arrival there, we went to Baraga Dansolihon, which was not far from the local airport. Only Cagayan River is found there; but this body of water is arguably the city's most popular destination. Most of us haven't tried water-rafting, but our trepidation was squashed by thoughts of getting wet and wild. It was cloudy and raining when we set foot on the riverbank. I thought the bad weather would spoil our rafting. It turned out otherwise.</div>
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All of us had a blast. The best part about water-rafting is through the rapids. I was worried when the rubber raft was near it - would the velocity and turbulence throw me off balance? Good thing I didn't fall off, as I learned moments that water-rafting was like riding a bicycle. I also tried not to get nervous, which made me look forward to the succeeding rapids. In between rapids, we tried to savor the drenched, almost-surreal landscape. We heard sounds of a bird or a monkey from time to time. When our guide told us that the river separated Cagayan de Oro from the province of Bukidnon, I became curious about what the other side looked like.</div>
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What was probably the highlight of our cruise was passing by a branch-covered, limestone-like cliff. They say snakes cross the river and take a rest in there when the weather is hot and dry. Some of us were relieved that it wasn't so. We were wet all over by the time our rafting was over. We felt it wasn't enough, though we'd been on the river for about an hour and a half. We wanted another round, but there was an island waiting for us.</div>
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<b>When Time Stood Still</b></div>
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We departed for Camiguin at dawn. It was sunrise when I saw Hibok-Hibok Volcano at close range. The entire peak was covered with trees, which could mean that the last eruption happened a long time ago. I also noticed the provincial capital when the jeepney we were on passed by Mambajao. Its many structures looked like they were built several decades ago. It wouldn't surprise me if some of them existed since the American Occupation. It felt like time stood still in this place. No one seemed too curious to explore around, as everyone was excited to frolic in the sea. </div>
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We checked in at Paras Resort, which was located on the outskirts of Mambajao. Some of us were tempted to take dips in the resort's lovely pool, but we were distracted by a sight in the distance - a white sandbar. A few hours later, everyone was excited as the boat made its way to White Island.</div>
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White Island is arguably Camiguin's most attractive destination. The sandbar's shape depends on the ocean current. It was G-shaped when we got there. The local who guided said it can also look like the letter C or L. I also found out that on a clear day, the islet was a photographer's treat, with Hibok-Hibok making a perfect background. I was lucky to take pictures of clouds that looked like smoke coming out of the volcano. For a brief moment, the inactive peak looked active. It may not be majestic like Mayond and Taal but during that sunny afternoon, Hibok-Hibok was absolutely gorgeous.</div>
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<b>Volcanic Exploration</b></div>
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We were told there were lots of springs around Hibok-Hibok, but Tikoy had a better idea for our itinerary the following day. We didn't get enough of White Island yesterday, so we went to Mantigue Island the next morning. The small, undeveloped isle is surrounded by white sand. Some went snorkeling, while others lazed in the open huts and savored the rustic surrounding. </div>
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After a quick lunch, we headed back to Camiguin to visit Katibawasan Falls. It's located several kilometers away from Mambajao. The jeepney went up a dirt road and into a wooded highland. Like Lanao's Tinago Falls, Katibawasan is located in a ravine. Everyone gaped at the falls' immense height; I estimated it to be more than 200 feet. We dipped into the pool below the falls, but some didn't stay long. The water was cols. It was too cold in my case; if not for my sinus allergy, I could have stayed longer. </div>
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We cut our visit short because we had to reach another destination before sunset. In Barangay Catarman, which was ten kilometers away from Mambajao, were structures destroyed by one of Hibok-Hibok's past eruptions. They looked like an old church and a house. Covered with vegetation and surrounded by <i>lanzones</i> trees, both could have an been an eerie sight if not for a small church that was built within the ruins.</div>
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The most prominent landmark on this part of the island is the sunken cemetery. A huge cross marks its underwater spot. The cross looked scenic when the sun was almost down, but my eyes got hooked to a small stretch of black sand facing the cross. I couldn't tell what year the old crater spewed these dark sands, but I considered it unique for a country renowned for white beaches. </div>
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<b>Panoramic View</b></div>
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We arrived back in Cagayan de Oro before noon the next day. Our trip to Manila was scheduled in the afternoon. That gave us enough time to visit another destination in Cagayan de Oro, the Malasag Eco-Tourism Village. Located on a slope outside the city proper, Malasag offers a panoramic view of the Misamis Oriental coastline. A cafe was built on a spot where visitors can appreciate this spectacular view. Not far from the cafe are native houses, where visitors can stay overnight. Beside the huts is a mini-zoo, which houses some of Mindanao's endemic birds. </div>
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Hibok-Hibok can't be seen from where we stood, but breathtaking images of the volcano came to mind as I stared at the Misamis coastline. There was no shortage of attractive places in this part of Mindanao - island or highland. </div>
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<b>(First published in Zest Air Inflight Magazine on August 2010)</b> </div>
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Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-59127954737857496182010-06-30T00:09:00.000-07:002014-09-12T20:44:59.008-07:00Davao del Norte<br />
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<b>Davao's Best-Kept Secret</b><br />
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I passed by Tagum, the provincial capital of Davao del Norte, eight years ago. I was on my first trip to Mindanao and was excited to see what this southern island offered. I was disappointed because there were no white beaches and mountains. But eight years on, I gave this province another chance and was amazed: Davao del Norte may be Davao region's best-kept secret.</div>
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Davao region is the most promising as far as local tourism is concerned. Its wide range of destinations and places of interest attracts different kinds of travelers. However, most know only of Davao City and Samal Island. My chance to explore the other areas began a few years ago and I was then impressed and captivated. Now, Davao del Norte has done the same for me. </div>
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<b>Festivals Aside</b></div>
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Bobby Dagala, my guide during the trip, told me that a festival just concluded in Tagum. He added that the next one would take place a month after my departure. Some more information gave me the impression that locals celebrate a festival every month. It was bad timing, but Bobby showed me what visitors would look forward to when there were no festivals. </div>
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One of Tagum's churches, Christ the King Cathedral, is the largest and the grandest of them all. Its front structure reminded me of those majestic chapels in Europe. This church has the world's largest rosary, which is located at the back. It's all over a small garden in front of a golden statue of Christ. I went closer to look at the beads, which I estimated to be as big as the boulders that litter the trail to Mount Pinatubo. </div>
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Bobby also took me to another place of interest in the city's so-called Holy Land. The Holy Rosary Shrine, a sanctuary located in Dominican Heights, houses a huge bronze statue of the Virgin Mary. Bobby and I had to climb up a 55-foot plus hill in able to stand in front of it. The 40-plus steps were lined up with rosary beads, which were eye-catching from the sanctuary's entrance. </div>
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We visited other public places afterwards. Along the way, I learned that the Durian Festival was held every September. It wasn't surprising, considering the abundance of the fruit in that province. I also found out that Davao del Norte was one of the sites of the most important battles during World War II. A monument was built not far from the city to commemorate it. Green seemed to be Tagum's official color. One proof of it is the pedicabs, a green-colored public vehicle that is ubiquitous sight in the city. </div>
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We arrived on a river near the National Highway after lunch. The city's tourism office has a plan to make it a top tourist attraction. It envisions a river cruise just like in Loboc, Boholo, but better with a river and sea cruise. The sight of flora not seen in Luzon piqued my curiosity. At the end of the river is Davao Bay and this is where the adventure begins. I can see Tagum's coastline from the bay. Compostella Valley's mountainous terrain looms in the distance. This sight would be awesome on a sunny day, but dark clouds gave it a brooding look. Drizzle prompted us to back to the river. </div>
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It was almost dark when we returned to the National Highway. I'd like to take another cruise on the same river many years from now. I'm sure that the place would be by then be developed and often visited. </div>
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Bobby said that we would do some cave-exploring the next day. He didn't tell me, though, that we would get drenched again. </div>
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We arrived ahead of schedule int he northern municipality of Kapalong. This gave us ample time to visit <i>Pag-asa</i> (Hope) Farms. The name is a bit off, as this place is home to reptiles and exotic birds. This mini-zoo is under the shadow of tall, lovely trees that partly occupy Pag-asa's front area. I gaped at a 25-foot-long crocodile, which looked lazy while moving around because of the humid weather. Moments later, some keepers showed us a young python. It was nearly ten feet long. Its size discouraged me from observing closely. Not far away were a herd of ostriches. </div>
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It was near noon when we hopped on a motorcycle and drove to Okbot Cave. It took us about 40 minutes to reach the barangay nearest the cave. We wore mining attire to protect our skin from sharp limestones. Going to the cave entrance wasn't hard, as we walked on a grassy terrain for about fifteen minutes. We next climbed up a rocky slope of about several feet to make it to the entrance. Water gushed out and cascaded down the slope. I thought of a spring somewhere inside. Nonoy, our guide for this trip, said there was an underground river in the middle of the cave. It made me excited.</div>
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About ten minutes after passing by the cave entrance, we entered Okbot's biggest chamber. The light from our safe helmets pointed to lovely stalactites and a mini-falls below. The pinkish hue made the scene look surreal. Then we walked to the stream above the mini-falls. The journey beyond that point was memorable. The passageway varied as we trudged along. Many times, we walked carefully to pass through rocks and stalactites. There were a few times when we crawled and almost submerged ourselves in water pools to pass through narrow entrances. Along the way, I saw one stalactite that looked like a huge molar tooth. We decided to go back after going as far as half a kilometer away from the cave entrance. </div>
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I was a bit disappointed at not reaching the underground river, but I kept reminding myself of the wonderful sights I had seen inside. </div>
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<b>A Wet Hike</b></div>
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We went east the next day to visit New Corella. Like Kapalong, this municipality has lots of caves to offer. But the one Bobby and I visited may be the town's most attractive destination. </div>
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Locals flock to Panas Resort to frolic in its two pools, but some venture to the waterfalls and river nearby. Panas Falls might have been an ordinary falls, but the morning light made it enchanting. At 25 feet high and ten feet wide, it looks cute, too. Joel, the town's tourism officer, invited us to see the spring where the water came from. We couldn't say no. </div>
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We opted to walk in cold water instead of on the riverbank. The slow hike allowed us to observe the different woods and plants on both sides of the river. It's certainly a treat for plant lovers as many are found only in Mindanao. I got distracted by the sight of odd-shaped leaves. I also saw a few thorn-covered stems. For about an hour, walking the shin-deep river wasn't a problem. I lost count of the number of mini-falls we passed. After an hour of hiking, we came upon boulders. The river became deeper. We stopped for a moment and admired a cliff with a structure that resembled stalactites. I surmised that this area used to be an underground river eons ago. </div>
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About half an hour later, we reached the water source. It came from the nearby mountain range. It wasn't a great sight, but what we experienced along the way made the entire trip special. </div>
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<b>My Little Paradise</b></div>
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It wasn't surprising that my final destination brought me back to Tagum Bay. After all, I kept on thinking about the cruise a couple of days ago. But in this case, I discovered a little piece of coastline surrounded by coconut and mangrove trees. </div>
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Barret Beach reminded me of Laguna's Hidden Valley - the resort looked detached from the rest of Tagum. I spent only a couple of hours there, but I found out that there were many things to do there. I kept on taking pictures of the symmetrical rows of coconut trees. I was astonished at the century-old mangrove trees hugging the river. The area is populated with monkeys and wild boars, which can be observed from a distance (they are wary of people). </div>
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It was a good thing that many of the trees were labeled. I didn't bother to remember their names because I was overcome by the feeling of being lost. I guess that's how a vacation must be. I was invited for horseback riding, but I took a rain check. I had another look at the beach. It was tempting, but there wasn't much time left. I promised myself to return to Barrett for it deserves another chance. The same thing with the other places I've just been to. </div>
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<b>(First published in Zest Air Inflight Magazine on June 2010)</b></div>
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Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-9299940053092328412010-03-13T08:26:00.000-08:002014-09-12T20:45:09.953-07:00Panay<br />
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<strong>A Rich Rediscovery</strong></div>
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During a break from work, Stephen and I decided to go to Panay; we last set foot on it several years ago. We wanted to rediscover our roots; his parents grew up in Antique, while my father spent most of his life in Iloilo. We planned the trip to last for five days and to happen four months from the time of our conversation. It took us a year before the trip pushed through, but better late than never. </div>
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Prior to the trip, Villa Beach was the only nice place I knew in Iloilo City. I wasn't bitten with the travel bug yet, so I was oblivious to the province's other tourist destinations. Now older and eager to travel around, I found out that Iloilo - and the rest of Panay - is a perfect getaway. Boracay isn't the only place to go. As Stephen and I realized during the trip, one needs an adventurous spirit to discover Panay's most gorgeous sights. </div>
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<strong>Old is the New Cool</strong></div>
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The Philippines doesn't have the majestic structures that Europe is renowned for, but it has old churches to make up for it. Iloilo has lots, and the good weather all year round keeps many of them in good condition. </div>
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Miag-ao Church was the first in the itinerary. When Stephen and I arrived there, the first thing we looked at was the church's front side. It's filled with eye-catching figures. Spain's colonial years are carved in these stones; I gaped at the figure of an elderly Aztec chief. At the top center is a carving of coconut leaves, so abundant in the Philippines. While Stephen took pictures of the church's side structures, I took a closer look at one of the church's two watchtower belfries to see if the material is really made up of clay. I pondered for a minute, but I couldn't come to a conclusion afterwards. </div>
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After we were done taking pictures, we went to Guimbal, the next town. Its church was built during the 19th century. Its features may not be as special as Miag-ao's, but the afternoon sun gives it an imposing look. Tigbauan's Church is no different from Guimbal's, which was also built during the 1800s. Locals were attending a mass by the time we got there. Stephen and I ate <em>bibingkas</em> (native rice cakes) while observing the people that crowded the entrance. </div>
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Molo's Church of St. Anne was our last stop. Stephen took shots of the church, while I sat down on one of the park benches in front of it and stared. Its front side reminded me of the towered churches in Western Europe: a lovely sight. We called it a day afterwards. Both of us weren't able to sleep immediately because we thought of the beaches that we would see the next day. </div>
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<strong>Life's a Beach</strong></div>
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Stephen and I boarded a bus to Pandan, Antique before sunrise. It took a couple of hours to cross the mountainous border that separates Iloilo and Antique. Half an hour later, we were greeted by the sight of a rice field. It had a terrace-like feature. It was the same with the succeeding rice fields the bus passed by. I surmissed that this was one of the distinctive features of Antique. </div>
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In the background is the Cordillera Mountain Range, which separates Antique from the rest of Panay. One hour later, Mount Madia-as, the island's highest peak, was in full view. Stephen told me we were near Culasi, which is located in the middle of the province. He talked about one of the town's islands, which he visited when he was a lad. He had fond memories of it, and I could see why moments later. </div>
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Mararison Island is several kilometers away from Culasi's coast. It's an underdeveloped isle with a lovely beach to laze around on. But that wasn't what Stephen was excited about; it was its pyramid-shaped sandbar, a few meters from the beach, that he asked the boatman to take us to. It took us a few minutes to walk around the sandbar. We rested for a moment. We gazed at Madia-as, which looked breathtaking from where we sat. We didn't stay long, as we needed to reach Pandan by afternoon. </div>
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Stephen was elated when we arrived at Pandan's public park two hours later. My curiousity was piqued by the statue of Jose Rizal, who looked like he was in deep thought. This was a one-of-a-kind statue of the national hero; most that I saw in other places have the same solemn expression. Stephen noticed it too, but he wasn't interested in it; he rather reminded me of his hometown's most popular destinations, which are Phaidon Beach and Malumpati Cold Springs. </div>
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The sun was setting by the time we reached Phaidon. The beach was deserted when we reached the place. Only a Dalmatian dog, owned by the resort owner, was frolicking in the waters. I wanted to take a good photo of this Boracay-like beach. The dog might have sensed my intention because he went to where was and sat. I took many shots of the beach with Stein (the dog's name); it was more than I could ask for. Stephen and I walked the coastline until dusk. He promised that our visit to Malumpati the following day would be more memorable. He was right. </div>
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<strong>Spring's Mini-fall</strong> </div>
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The spring is several kilometers away from the poblacion (town center). The mini-falls in front of the 20-foot pool are its beast feature. I was about to take a bath when Stephen suggested that we went to the source of the spring. The river trek took us about an hour. It could have been shorter, but we took time to absorb the verdant riverbanks, gorgeous rock formations and the emerald-colored waters. </div>
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The water source was something I least expected - a pond that looked like a mixture of green and yellow (more greenish), surrounded by woods that seemed endemic in Antique. There was a mysterious feel to the area, which made me reluctant to go down the slope and take a bath. Stephen and I traced back our steps after several minutes of looking around. We called it a day after swimming in the cold pool. </div>
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Crystal Cove Island was on the itinerary the next day. It's a small isle located between Boracay and Caticlan that can be reached in half an hour. The island's main attraction is the Coral Garden, where stone houses are surrounded by gorgeous corals of various shapes. It took us half an hour to look around and gape at the structures. We went down a cave that offered a view of waves crashing onto the corals below. Not a bad sight. On our way back, we were stopped by a boat, in which a man was selling popsicles and ice cream. </div>
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While waiting for the world-famous sunset, Stephen and I assessed our five-day trip. We'd seen many places, but we wanted more. We planned to include Capiz on our next trip to Panay. The only question was when. </div>
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<strong>(First published in Zest Air Inflight Magazine on January 2010)</strong></div>
Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-16837827856169126772010-03-09T07:14:00.000-08:002014-09-12T20:45:59.338-07:00Compostella Valley<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHI4Js-xL2f-kerjAvH86wqTOqMGvKF5RCQG-RVHQKDtzqX4BcgtvzCKokY8aEnVDqikTRZJAsblsm1Ygm_a_uik4TkSips2ehVYVMbH1GIeGpGIbQSfvXnSWR0lJv_tfqukS_6C0O-sY/s1600/ComVal14.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjHI4Js-xL2f-kerjAvH86wqTOqMGvKF5RCQG-RVHQKDtzqX4BcgtvzCKokY8aEnVDqikTRZJAsblsm1Ygm_a_uik4TkSips2ehVYVMbH1GIeGpGIbQSfvXnSWR0lJv_tfqukS_6C0O-sY/s320/ComVal14.jpg" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458330878373832498" style="display: block; height: 320px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 240px;" /></a><br />
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<b>Highlands with a View</b></div>
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Davao region may be the Philippines' ultimate highland escapade. It's not that the Cordillera region isn't short of tourist attractions, but I was astonished at what I discovered during my first visit to Davao three years ago - lots of multi-tiered and plunging waterfalls, assorted hot and cold springs, breathtaking vistas of verdant mountain ranges. </div>
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In Davao, several peaks rise above 8,000 feet. Most of them are found in Compostella Valley. This southern province was once part of Davao del Norte. It became independent in 1998 via the Republic Act No. 8470. Mountains are the first things I see whenever I visit Mindanao. It's also the sight that lingers in my mind long after the trip is over. But it's a different level in th case of Comval, the province's nickname. My recent visit tells me that it's the final frontier in local tourism. </div>
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Leonard Kniaseff, one of Mindanao's active volcanoes, is located in Comval's southern region. Like Mount Pinatubo, this strato-volcano is a few thousand feet high and one must ride on a plane in able to identify it. In Leonard's case, the areas close to it would give visitors a hint of its presence. </div>
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<b>Some Like It Hot</b></div>
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Several kilometers away from the municipality of Maco is Mainit Hot Springs. Water cascades down a 15-foot, sulfur-covered slope. The chemical substance makes the water hot. Not suitable when the sun is way up, which I found out when I dropped by one humid afternoon. </div>
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Half an hour later, I explored Maco, a sleepy town near Lake Leonard. It doesn't take ten minutes to reach the crater lake, which is a source of livelihood to the inhabitants. Rows of bamboos on one side indicate that the lake is a breeding ground for tilapia, mudfish and milkfish. </div>
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Lake Leonard looks splendid from above. A tree-covered slope on one side of the lake looks gorgeous when it's bathed with the afternoon sun. But even in faint sunlight, the lake is an eye-catcher. No one can tell the depth, but this isn't important, as the clear reflection of the clouds and the mountain range makes this lake a must-see. </div>
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<b>Comval's Best</b></div>
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Water is eternal in this province. In every town I went, there were pools that locals flock to during weekends. It's like the resorts lining up in Calamba and Los Banos in Laguna. </div>
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One of the barangays near Nabunturan (the provincial capital) is home to one of the province's lumads, a tribal group found only in the Davao areas. Some of the elder residents were hospitable to perform a tribal dance for us. They didn't don tribal costumes or use native instruments, but the rhythmic music and dance steps reminded me that Mindanao, like India, is multicultural. </div>
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Comval isn't only about highlands; Mabini is a seaside town with a scenic spot to offer. One of its resorts is on stilts, several meters away from the beach. Not far from it is Kopiat Island, a pear-shaped isle surrounded by white sands. The island isn't developed yet, but it offers some potential; Christine Dompor, the Provincial Tourism Officer, said that it's ideal for water sports activities, and its vicinity has unspoiled reefs that are homes for exotic tropical fish. </div>
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I like Kopiat's fine sands and clear waters, but it's the highlands that I want to explore next time. There are more waterfalls to see and more springs to check out. </div>
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<b>(First published in Zest Air Inflight Magazine on December 2009)</b></div>
Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-71165477198870267212010-03-06T14:45:00.000-08:002014-09-12T20:46:14.372-07:00Bucas Grande Island, Surigao del Norte<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">A Hundred Islets off Surigao</span><br />
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Claver is the last town in Surigao del Norte that visitors pass by before reaching Surigao del Sur. I like its scenery when I first visited three years ago. Behind the poblacion (town proper) is the Iron Mountain, which is along the border of Surigao del Norte and Surigao del Sur. Facing the town is a cluster of islands of different sizes.<br />
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During sunny weather, the mountain's brick-red soil glistens while the isles seem to beckon. Both are eye-catching sights, and I was lucky to see them again. They can be viewed from the town wharf, which I did while waiting for the boat that would take me to Bucas Grande Island. It was a humid afternoon when the boat arrived.<br />
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I felt confused when I first saw Bucas Grande. Located behind Siargao Island, it was hard to tell if Bucas is an island with numerous islets or simply a cluster of islets. I got more perplexed when the boat was meters aways from the isle.<br />
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Bucas is inaccessible by road. I saw floras endemic in Caraga; I spotted a few magcono woods and pitcher plants not far from the guest house. I didn't see any mammals, but the occasional sounds of primates suggest that wildlife abounds.<br />
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The water is about twenty feet deep within the isle's territory. While resting in the guest house. I stared at the verdant mounds. They could be islets close together. They could be rolling hills that define the isle. They could be both. Miro Ajoc, the island's barangay captain, couldn't tell either. What he's certain of, though, is Bucas has more than a hundred islets. He then pointed out that it was low tide; he suggested that we go to Suhoton Cove, Bucas' most popular destination.<br />
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A few hundred meters from the guest house is a partly-exposed passageway. It's the path to Suhoton Cove. Stalactites were a few meters above our heads while the boat passed through; a huge one shaped like a horseshoe greeted us as we entered the cove. Suhoton is a big lake surrounded by numerous islets, many of which resemble Bohol's Chocolate Hills. As I observed the tranquil surroundings, Miro told me that there are a number of caves within the area. We went to Crystal Cave, which is partially submerged. The faint sunlight was enough for me to see and gape at the cave's ceiling. Milky white. Smooth. No stalactites. We stood on a boulder in the middle of the small cave in order to see the bottom of the cave. The water is about ten feet deep, and there no traces of shells and rocks. The white sands seem to glow. It's an otherworldly place - too bad my digital camera isn't waterproof.<br />
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Dusk set in as we left Suhoton. As the boat traveled back to the guest house, I witnessed what Bucas Grande looked like in the early evening. A canopy of stars lit up the isle and the sea. The noises made by insects were in unison. It was one of a kind.<br />
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<b>Like a dream</b><br />
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A half-day tour isn't long enough to see the entire island, but it's more than enough to see other areas not far from the guest house.<br />
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Miro first took me to a lagoon teeming with non-stinging jellyfish. He claimed that only Palau and Bucas Grande have jellyfish of this kind. Then we went to Bucas' own version of Hundred Islands; some have pocket white beaches, which we checked out. Tiktikan, one of the isle's numerous lakes, was our next destination. We rested and enjoyed the view from the open hut that was perched on a slope above the lake.<br />
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I left for the mainland after lunch. As Bucas became obscure, I realized that the entire trip was like a dream. I wondered if there was another isle like it.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">(First published in Zest Air Inflight Magazine on November 2009)</span></div>
Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-33844691014160459052009-09-30T21:52:00.000-07:002014-09-12T20:46:35.762-07:00Iligan, Lanao del Norte<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkajftGY-CKFyZ8uimptyILCUA0x4J02cXNaGdehO-cCXTjAIIoGnlYLoq3JKhsAUNXQfg3K-E1sSzUxwxu1wAzv4-r5u_h716M3A1YnyngqD-z3C3prWWvUycHEbhdavqVNwusb6HIsk/s1600/Jul01.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkajftGY-CKFyZ8uimptyILCUA0x4J02cXNaGdehO-cCXTjAIIoGnlYLoq3JKhsAUNXQfg3K-E1sSzUxwxu1wAzv4-r5u_h716M3A1YnyngqD-z3C3prWWvUycHEbhdavqVNwusb6HIsk/s320/Jul01.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458327667759135282" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 320px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 240px;" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Water drops on Gorgeous Rocks</span><br />
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A billboard along Tibanga Highway caught my attention. It proclaims Iligan as the "City of Majestic Waterfalls". It wasn't hard to doubt, as Mindanao's chartered city is surrounded by mountains. Iligan's topography is mountainous, but visitors won't see glints of waterfalls that dot these mountainous terrain from a distance.<br />
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The billboard also showed pictures of falls of different shapes and lengths. According to Iligan's Tourism Office, 23 waterfalls are distributed among the city's 44 barangays. A few are accessible, while the rest take a day or two to reach. One is Limunsudan, which is the country's highest falls. The other one is Kalubihon, located inside a cave. Regardless of size and appearance, waterfalls are natural forces in their inherent power and beauty. This is what draws people to Iligan, which is blessed with these unique tourist attractions.<br />
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It would take a week or two to see all of Iligan's waterfalls. It took me three days to see seven. Not a bad number.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">City by the Bay</span><br />
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The long stretch of Tibanga Highway tells visitors that Iligan is a sizable metropolis sans malls and high-rise buildings. No one would imagine that this was once Lanao del Norte's fortress against pirates and savage tribes. Natives back then went to Iligan Bay to look out for invaders.<br />
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The bay is still a sight to behold. Visitors need to go to Anahaw Amphitheater in order to see the bay and the city proper. It's located in Buhanginan Hill, where the city hall is located. The amphitheater, not remote from its Greek counterpart, serves as a playground for kids and an early-morning venue for adults whenever local officials aren't using it for provincial government programs.<br />
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Rene Pierna, my guide during a three-day stay, took me around Iligan on his motorcycle. After Anahaw, we went to St. Michael Cathedral, the city's main Catholic church. Muslim attire is a frequent sight along blocks of business establishments along the way. It is a sign that Christians and Muslim live in harmony in this northern city (a neighboring province, Lanao del Sur, predominantly Muslim, can be reached in half an hour). This counters the stereotypical image of Mindanao as an "unsafe place for foreigners" because of terrorists. After I took photos of the church, I observed small groups of giggly students passing by and the beeping noise of jeepneys that ply the route. Iligan seemed no different from other provincial capitals I've been to.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Walk the Wild Side</span><br />
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After the cathedral, Rene took me to Barangay Bonbonon, which is about 15 kilometers away from the city proper. He said that visitors must trek to reach the waterfalls in this part of Iligan. His motorcycle traversed dirt roads and rugged towards Dodiongan Falls. We crossed a rice field and a stream, taking us about 20 minutes to get there. The falls is about 100 feet high. Two torrent flows cascade down stalactite-like rocks - the one on the right side being stronger than the left. Water drops onto a spring-green pool about 20 feet deep. This unique feature makes Dodiongan fascinating to gaze at. It's probably one of the country's waterfalls that only backpackers know about.<br />
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We then traveled to Barangay Kiwalan, which is 20 kilometers from the city proper. Hindang Falls awaited us. It's another cascade-type, albeit much shorter than Dodiongan. Water glides down a smooth, steep slope about 25 feet high. At its foot is an apple-green pool that beckons. Rene pointed to the top of the falls and told me of cave clusters not far from where we stood. The caves have narrow entrances with long and deep chambers. However, lack of time prevented us from climbing and exploring the caves.<br />
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Instead, we went to Barangay Dalipuga, where another 25-foot falls is found. Rene and I descended a grassy slop towards Pampan Falls. Like Hindang, water cascades into an apple-green pool. The only difference is the rock formation that the water comes into contact with - Pampan's made up of smaller stalactites within the formations. Then we called it a day; we were supposed to visit Kalubihon but dark clouds cut the trip short because of looming rain.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Buru-un's Finest</span><br />
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We traveled to the city's outskirts on the way to Barangay Buru-un, which is home to three of Iligan's most majestic falls, namely Maria Christina, Mimbalut and Tinago.<br />
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Maria Christina has often been featured in Philippine stamps. It's hardly a surprise considering that the sight of water dropping from a 320-foot high cliff is breathtaking. Visitors must come here on weekends by 11 AM because it's the only time of the week when Maria Christina comes to life; because a hydroelectric company harnesses its water for electric power thereafter. And there are plans to turn the area into a tourist park.<br />
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Mimbalut is a few kilometers away from Maria Christina. Parallel cascades descend on a rocky slope and into a cool, clear stream. Fifty feet high and 20 feet wide, Mimbalut is much smaller than Maria Christina but it's no less gorgeous; visitors need to be there early morning to witness its charm, especially when the morning sun's rays render the scene otherworldly.<br />
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It was Tinago Falls though that blew me away. Located between Iligan and the municipality of Linamon, Tinago lies deep within a ravine. Visitors need to descend a 340-step stairway to reach it. What is unique about Tinago is that its waters seem to spurt out of a rocky cliff about 420 feet high. A river source is found at its extreme right, where the flow of water is strongest. Life vests are available so visitors can frolic in a 60-foot pool; it's hard to resist the cold, greenish water. The pool was filled with laughter and shrieks of joy when I was there. Something about Tinago's magnificent gorges hooked me. I couldn't stop taking photos from different angles and was amply rewarded with a rainbow cameo appearance - I couldn't ask for more.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Final Destination: Kapatagan</span><br />
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My last day was spent on a bus; I traveled many kilometers and passed a number of towns to reach Kapatagan, a municipality near Misamis Occidental and Zamboanga. This is where Cathedral Falls is located.<br />
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Cathedral is about 15 kilometers from the town proper. Its waters plunge into a dark pool. But there's nothing dramatic about this waterfalls, compared to Maris Christina and Tinago. In fact, simple and serene best describe it. An 80-foot cliff makes the area place attractive however. The vertical columns of rocks are astonishingly symmetrical. They reminded me of Fingal's Cave and Giant's Causeway, two tourist attractions in the U.K. admired for similar features. No one knows if intense volcanic activity has been responsible for Cathedral's cliff. What a fascinating view it presents when the afternoon sun lights up its facade.<br />
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As I traveled back to Iligan, I thought about all the waterfalls I've seen. They all have different moods, but they had the same effect on me - soothing yet overwhelmingly lovely, an intriguing experience in contrasts that makes these Iligan waterfalls appealing.<br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">(First published in Zest Inflight Magazine on October 2009)</span></div>
Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-29686330910061212112009-08-10T08:45:00.000-07:002014-09-12T20:46:51.467-07:00Surigao del Sur<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUiQBKZlwqWdK-DmWTjKXsWPM6PrW6nQIRK8L-MAhyphenhyphent5HT7mHYa_HaMEqqo3jVi-qWtlP9ME6Nvy7m9-UEP3xk93_g1o7oAzV82jjgRQh-Rxhiz2udH8xdQTFGY5edLPTjjwb27RmIWO4/s1600/SdS06.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img alt="" border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUiQBKZlwqWdK-DmWTjKXsWPM6PrW6nQIRK8L-MAhyphenhyphent5HT7mHYa_HaMEqqo3jVi-qWtlP9ME6Nvy7m9-UEP3xk93_g1o7oAzV82jjgRQh-Rxhiz2udH8xdQTFGY5edLPTjjwb27RmIWO4/s320/SdS06.JPG" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5458325755963173042" style="cursor: hand; cursor: pointer; display: block; height: 320px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 240px;" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">A seaside Shangri-La awaits</span></div>
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No two beaches in the world are alike. I came to that conclusion after visiting Surigao del Sur more than once.</div>
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On my first visit, I found out that white beaches are ubiquitous in this part of the world. Their beaches are about a hundred meters long, with sands as white and fine as Boracay’s. But it’s the Pacific Ocean that sets Surigao del Sur’s coastlines apart from the other beaches I visited. The seascape changes mood during the course of the day. I like the deep-blue water glowing under the blazing sun; it’s both fascinating and intimidating. When the sea turns tranquil during the afternoon, I mused and savored the view.</div>
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On my second visit, I learned that the beach isn’t the province’s only attraction. There are waterfalls and caves as well. Eye-catching isles are not uncommon either. Some coastlines may be darker but are not less attractive.</div>
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On my third visit, I came to the conclusion that “Shangri-La by the Pacific” may be an apt description for Mindanao’s eastern province.</div>
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Three days seems enough to see Surigao’s best tourist spots.</div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Day 1: Into the Blue</span></div>
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I arrived in Tandag, the provincial capital, one Saturday morning. Baby Ambray and Bong Luna, both of whom I met and befriended in my previous trips, took me to the pier. Besides it is a hill where a grotto is perched. We ascended the 70-plus steps in order to relish the panorama of boats and nipa huts dotting Tandag's coastline.</div>
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We didn't stay long as we needed a couple of hours to reach the southern municipality of Hinatuan. About 20 kilometers away from the poblacion (town center) is an unusual river. Locals call it the "Enchanted River" because the water is deep-blue, the fishes look like they came from the sea, and the riverbed is a canyon. My guide told me that the river is a hundred feet deep, and there’s a partially-submerged cave nearby. They surmised that fresh water and sea water meet somewhere inside. We also wondered if the Enchanted River is the sea's outlet, the river and the ocean being a few kilometers apart. Visitors don't bother to find out though as they rather frolic in the river's clear waters.</div>
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By afternoon, we reached Barobo, which is the province's midpoint. The town offers two unusual islands, namely Cabgan and Turtle. The former is shaped like an alligator and the the latter, what else but a turtle.</div>
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Cabgan has a lovely sandbar, which Baby and I rested on while admiring Turtle Island. Cabgan is uninhabited, and knowing this made the trip more exciting. It felt like we were the first to set foot on the island.</div>
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Turtle Island's figure became imposing as we ventured closer to it. There is an islet at the rear that has a gorgeous archway. There are neither coastlines nor inhabitants on Turtle but it hardly mattered. I wondered then and there if there were any isles in the Philippines, or even in any part of the world, that have islands as perfectly reptile-shaped as these. Only in Surigao del Sur, maybe.</div>
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The sun was about to set when our boat left Cabgan. Streaks of white sands were all over my legs and arms. I didn’t shake it off. I like how the white granules looked on my legs and arms, and I rubbed my fingers on them.</div>
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On our way back to Tandag, I asked Bong where I could buy souvenir items in Surigao del Sur. The answer came the next day.</div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Day 2: Souvenirs, Anyone?</span></div>
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It was mid-morning when we reached Cagwait, which is not far from Barobo. The town comes alive when it celebrates Kaliguan Festival. On this occasion, we stopped by the home of Venustiano Lambo, a member of Cagwait's Tourism Council. He produces magcono furniture and furnishings. When Mr. Lambo started furniture making in 1974, he chose magcono as his raw material. The wood is abundant in Surigao and is noted for its smooth texture and durability. He had learned about it when he was a logging superintendent at Aras-Arasan Timber Company.</div>
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The former engineer accompanied us to the shop, which is besides his house. We saw tables and chairs that would be sold at future trade fairs. A cabinet stored cups, pen cases and paper weights. I noticed that VG Lambo Enterprises’ products look more like display items. I eventually settled for a pen case, which would be a nice addition to my glass cabinet.</div>
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After a quick look at Cagwait's U-shaped beach (which is the site of its annual festival), we proceeded to the northern region to visit Lanuza. Baby and Bong brought me to Magkawas Falls and the Marine Sanctuary, both of which are a few meters away from each other and several kilometers away from the poblacion.</div>
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Magkawas is no eye catcher when compared to Mindanao's stunning falls (such as Lanao's Maria Christina), but residents came up with a brilliant idea. They constructed a rocky wall two feet high. The structure resulted in a pool being formed in which visitors can bathe, and another tier of falls that greatly improved the scenery.</div>
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On the other hand, the Marine Sanctuary houses some shells and marine species that are only found in Lanuza's shores. It also has a viewing deck that allows visitors to admire Surigao's breathtaking coastline.</div>
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We have to travel a few kilometers more in able to visit the Lanuza Agsamcraft Development Cooperative (LADC), which is located in Barangay Nurcia. Handbags, belts and accessories made up of agsam, a vine only found in Surigao del Sur, are available for sale. Agsam has to be buried deep in mud for days in order to acquire a brownish color. Originally worn by natives as a talisman against evil spirits, this native fashion accessory become one of Surigao del Sur's top souvenir items. Visitors won't have any problems purchasing in bulk; many residents in Nurcia weave agsam products. It's not only traditional but a means of livelihood as well.</div>
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As I clutched a few wrist bands I had bought, I saw more islands and beaches on the way back to Tandag. I wondered if the municipality of Cantilan, which is last on the itinerary, would be any different. What a pleasant surprise it would turn out to be.</div>
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<span style="font-weight: bold;">Day 3: More Island-Hopping</span></div>
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Iron Mountain looms above Cantilan. It’s covered in pine-like trees and its brick-red soil glistens when the sun is high in the sky. From an elevation of about a thousand feet, the islands and the sea look spectacular, with some of the peak's dramatic structures impossible to ignore.</div>
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It took us two hours to reach Cantilan’s wharf. Four islands - Ayoke, General, Huyamao and Casarica - are nearby. Our guide, Tony Areo, noted that Cantilan has a varied range of natural attractions similar to Bohol's, but it's on these islands where visitors can find the best the municipality has to offer. With limited time, we could only visit General and Casarica.</div>
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General Island, the largest of the group, looked like a reptile on slumber. The isle’s darkly-verdant landscape covers any attractions it would otherwise offer visitors. Our boat headed towards a particular side in order to see a small chapel. The church is nestled atop a hill overlooking a lagoon and General's picturesque coast. Heading towards the lagoon, I gaped at the emerald-blue waters and was amazed as our boat passed the striking rock formations that lined up General’s other coastline.</div>
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Islets of various sizes greeted on our way to Casarica. Its white beach was our final destination. While relaxing on the fine sands, I wondered whether this short strip of white sand may be the 20th white beach I saw. I had lost count. What I'm sure of though is that beach and the others I visited combined to make lasting memories I'll always have of Surigao del Sur.<br />
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<strong>(First published in Zest Inflight Magazine on August-September 2009)<br /></strong><br />
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Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-65491541065579996682009-07-26T08:24:00.000-07:002010-01-07T07:17:44.169-08:00Maragusan, Compostella Valley<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWoN4BctCpbwuCiswagFuCHQk9QFsIPVbWDETGDMlchu92kPtP09rEzaVdYRd-H50mFJrPCAeOVrMYwQXN8IXoY2E0Juwq1JawvG_5PZQT-urepIZ2IGlv0-oZTsNDVjiyzyL5Ur1kRIQ/s1600-h/ComVal15.jpg"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 240px; height: 320px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWoN4BctCpbwuCiswagFuCHQk9QFsIPVbWDETGDMlchu92kPtP09rEzaVdYRd-H50mFJrPCAeOVrMYwQXN8IXoY2E0Juwq1JawvG_5PZQT-urepIZ2IGlv0-oZTsNDVjiyzyL5Ur1kRIQ/s320/ComVal15.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5362790804177255970" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Sky-high adventure in Maragusan</span><br /><br /><div style="text-align: justify;">It was past 6 a.m. when I arrived in Maragusan. A landmark with a message that reads, “Welcome to Maragusan, the summer capital of the Davao region”greeted me. Baguio in Davao? I was surprised.<br /><br />Maragusan is located in Compostella Valley’s highland region. A mountain range surrounds this small town. Looking for something unusual wasn’t hard, as Christine Dompor, the Provincial Tourism Officer, took me to the town’s favorite hangout.<br /><br />Haven’s Peak is a resort nestled on Tarago Hills facing Maragusan. It offers a panorama that would keep the visitors coming back. I was lucky to witness it.<br /><br />Mist slowly moved to my direction. The town was nowhere in sight after half an hour. It was like what happened to a Californian fishing town in John Carpenter’s “The Fog.” An otherworldly sight it was.<br /><br />Henrich Nalzaro, a local government unit officer, was delighted at my reaction. He remarked matter-of-factly that the mountains hid numerous waterfalls. He invited me to see Pyalitan Falls, which is several kilometers away from the town.<br /><br />About 40 minutes later, we trek on a muddy footpath. Here and there were plants and trees that were only found in Mindanao. It took us nearly 30 minutes to reach a two-tier falls. The first one was about a few feet high, while the second has a drop of 10 feet.<br /><br />Nalzaro told me that we must climb up in able to see Pyalitan. Ascending the rocky slope besides the first falls wasn’t hard, but it wasn’t the case with the second.<br /><br />He pointed to the two boulders located a few meters away from the top of the second falls. We needed both rope and bamboo to able to pass through the small opening between it. With a little help from Dompor’s staff, I managed to bring my overweight body up there.<br /><br />We saw another two-tier waterfall, but this one was more dramatic. The first falls was about 15-feet high, while the second one was probably 150 feet in height. Fatigue was setting in, but we couldn’t stop. We crossed a rocky creek and climbed another rocky slope to be able to get close to the grandest of the four falls.<br /><br />Pyalitan looked like a mini version of Venezuela’s Angel Falls. The sky seemed so close. If ecstasy is about elevation, then this huge waterfall is the tops.<br /><br />Descending wasn’t difficult, as I used my butt to keep my feet from slipping. We were back to starting point about an hour later. As we passed by the mountain range, all I could think of was the waterfalls up there. How I wished I could stay there.<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">(First published in Manila Times on May 30, 2009)</span><br /></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-74892258095662213152008-11-07T20:45:00.000-08:002010-01-07T07:20:22.668-08:00Negros Occidental<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikoBnkB6woMH0MmaHsknSZMN35gkWuab3D7zb9Qrx9gwP0ESUnOqmwKt-51Y0MwwaBg6GL1YZ_jFaPIUUlAyst97M5RSJOip5_djQaEnBXcEVcuiKRJszGgP13ww148DI7mbFfPcWKReE/s1600-h/Negros.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266144795634651794" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 216px; height: 288px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEikoBnkB6woMH0MmaHsknSZMN35gkWuab3D7zb9Qrx9gwP0ESUnOqmwKt-51Y0MwwaBg6GL1YZ_jFaPIUUlAyst97M5RSJOip5_djQaEnBXcEVcuiKRJszGgP13ww148DI7mbFfPcWKReE/s320/Negros.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Negros Occidental: Sweeter than sweet</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">This writer thought there was little else to Negros Occidental than sugar canes. A familiarization tour a few weeks ago changed that. In fact, the provincial government wants to market it as just a short hop from Bohol, famed for its superb beaches. Negros is the country's fourth largest island, made up of Negros Occidental and Negros Oriental. The latter is also known as ecotourist haven with wonders like Apo Island in Dumaguete.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">A tour of Negros Occidental begins with Bacolod, the provincial capital, a flat landscape more than a towering city, that closely resembles a sprawling village. Lacson and Araneta Streets, the city's two main thoroughfares, host many of the city's must-sees.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Our guide, Lilibeth Cordova, said that a number of edifices in Bacolod date back to American period. The Provincial Capitol, for instance, resembles the columned architecture of the Central Post Office in Manila. Near the city's main routes lie a lovely lagoon and park, a wildlife sanctuary called the Negros Forest Ecological Foundation, and the Negros Showroom, renowned for its first-class souvenir and handicrafts items.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Not far from the Capitol is the Negros Museum where one learns that the province's bloodless uprising against the Spaniards made it actually the first ever People Power revolution, and that it was the site of a short-lived republic before the Americans came.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">But the museum's main attraction is a doll collection donated by Mara Montelibano, a Negrense who spent most of her life overseas. The dolls represented the many countries she visited, and the Marushka dolls from Russia were clearly the most captivating of the lot.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">North of Bacolod lies Sta. Clara Subdivision, home to the province's VIPs. What makes this residential community unique is its chapel, made up mostly of seashells. Designed by Nena Ledesma, 95,000 pieces of shells adorn the sliding doors, chandelier, framed portraits of the Stations of the Cross and the altar. The altar's backdrop was just as eye-catching, which showed a Madonna and child blessing a coastal village.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Even as we feasted on art and sights, we also feasted on the literal kind-the sweet delicacies of the province including the buttery biscotti-like biscocho, merengue and baked muffins, all of which are favorite pasalubong, or items to bring home.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>The scenic northern Negros coastline<br /></strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Heading north, the sight of sugar canes was endless. We passed by a milling company at Victoria's City, with our guide saying that about 5,000 sugar canes are processed each day. An old locomotive nicknamed Iron Dinosaur was on display, a reminder of the time when locals rode the train to travel around Negros.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Within the Victoria's Milling Corporation compound is another church named in honor of St. Joseph the Worker. The focal point of the church is Alfonso Ossorio's painting of an angry Christ facing the altar-certainly an image of Christ we see very little of. The other walls were painted with Byzantine-inspired saints.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Next to Victoria's is the city of Silas, home to at least 30 Vigan-styled abodes, large stone houses with designs dating back to the Spanish era. The most singular of these is the former residence Don Victor Gaston, a prominent landowner or hacendero. It now stands as a Balay Negrense Museum.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Our coastal trip reached as far as Sagay, where the Carbin Reef can be found. There are coral reefs for snorkelers but frolicking along the S-shaped, white sandbar is rewarding enough. The watchtower, which is about 100 meters away, offers a panoramic view of the sandbar.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">We briefly stopped by Cadiz to buy the town's dried produce such as fish tocino, preserved in a sweetish marinade; fish bones (locally known as "Jurassic"); and bundles of stick fishes. A stopover in Manapla allowed us to savor the tastiest putos or rice muffins.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Reach for the falls</strong><br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Mount Kanlaon, one of the numerous active volcanoes in the Philippines, lies southeast of Bacolod. Near the base of the volcano is Mambukal Resort.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Located in the city of Murcia, Mambukal is less than 300 meters above sea level. First discovered as an area of hot, sulfur springs and boiling mud, Japanese architect Ishitawa first developed the resort as a bathhouse and picnic garden. Now operated by the provincial government, recreational facilities such as swimming pools were added to the 23.6-hectare resort for visitors to enjoy.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The area boasts of seven nameless waterfalls, referred to by locals only as the first waterfall, the second waterfall, and so on. They gush from heights of 12 to 25 meters not far from the resort amenities and are best enjoyed by the athletic and adventurous. The challenge is to climb up the steep, narrow stairway close to the waterfalls and the streams in between.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Tropical foliage including trees, flowering plants and ferns surrounded the scenery. It took us about half an hour to reach the sixth falls. It was all the tourist group I was with could take. We couldn't bear another 30 minutes of trekking-at least-to get to the seventh. We were exhausted. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It was late afternoon when we sought the nearest sulfur spring to soothe our exhausted bodies. As we sank into the waters, a multitude of fruit bats awoke from their slumber, and flew out of the surrounding trees. They circled above us, a truly awesome sight. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><strong>(First published in What's On & Expat on April 3-9, 2005)</strong> </span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-32977173543191933092008-11-07T20:37:00.000-08:002008-11-07T20:44:39.046-08:00Bicol region<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-KE8zoVCchhV0_jHOR4ZpDb6PwP5oGWmp5SAP3VNM_0SvrrWI9LTHZRg_N4eqzN5nIrlmWeR_F_I8qAF8EWvCVnpohXGDwq11uxJb76TgP0pUyVQXtUWtJGPbJujdhkoGjdPzBoi5Ww/s1600-h/Mayon.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266142969003282642" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 216px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 288px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh7-KE8zoVCchhV0_jHOR4ZpDb6PwP5oGWmp5SAP3VNM_0SvrrWI9LTHZRg_N4eqzN5nIrlmWeR_F_I8qAF8EWvCVnpohXGDwq11uxJb76TgP0pUyVQXtUWtJGPbJujdhkoGjdPzBoi5Ww/s320/Mayon.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>From steaming volcanoes to swimming with whale sharks</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Mention the Bicol Region and the first image that comes to mind is Mayon Volcano. It may be a postcard cliché and the region may have plenty of other sights and destinations to boast of, but the volcano, perfectly symmetrical and perfectly active, remains the mother of all tourist attractions.<br /></div></span><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Few people know that Bicol, located at the southeastern tip of Luzon, the most prominent isle in the Philippines, is a chain of volcanic cones. During pre-Spanish times, three volcanoes, namely Labo (in the province of Camarines Norte), Aso (popularly known as Iriga, in Camarines Sur) and Bulusan (in Sorsogon) took turns with their eruptions. Mayon came into the picture when these peaks became extinct.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The first recorded accounts of Mayon's eruption were made by the Franciscan priests during the 18th century. Its most destructive explosion occurred in February 1814, when clouds of volcanic gas and waves of mud and lava destroyed the town of Cagsawa, about 16 kilometers away. More than 1,200 lives were lost. What remained was the church's bell tower and a few stone roofs, visible to this day and nearly as postcard-famous as the volcano itself.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Today there are on-site amenities like cottages, swimming pools and a resting shed where tourists can gawk at Mayon and perhaps think about how enraged it was hundreds of years ago.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Rising up to 7,943 feet (2,421 meters), Mayon is a superb example of what geologists call a stratovolcano. Its slopes were built up of layers (strata) of lava alternating with layers of ejected cinders and other materials. Such structure results in a graceful, symmetrical slope. Before sunrise is perhaps the best time to see the world-famed volcano-with its majestic form and its glowing crater puffing steam. I glimpsed it aboard a bus at Iriga. The sight was breathtaking.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">In the buried town of Cagsawa, I explored the path that led to the submerged stone houses, as other tourists posed for pictures beside the belfry. The sky was clear enough for early visitors to gape at the volcano's beautiful symmetry but it was short lived, as clouds gradually covered the volcano.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>The view from mid-peak</strong><br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It takes an hour and a half of traveling along cemented roads to reach mid-peak. At the end of the snaked path, facilities set up for visitors were in spotty condition: an abandoned building, a soon-to-be-opened planetarium, a grotto and a park. The place also crawled with kids begging for alms.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The semi-circular mini-park and playground was a consolation. From that vantage point, we marveled at the Albay coastline and two mountains in the horizon, Mt. Masaraga and Mt. Malinao. A row of cottony clouds encircled the park minutes later.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Except for the open park, the grotto was the facility open to the public. It was filled with religious statues with ornamental plants adorning the area. In the middle of the grotto was a huge, white cross, imposing enough to rival the volcano above it. Nearby, locals sold bonsai plants. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Even in the city proper, Mayon's presence loomed as we checked the various abaca or hemp products at the local market or ducked into Legaspi's lone department store.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Come on in, the water's fine</strong><br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">While Mayon is the region's top tourist banana, there's another reason for making the 12-hour trip to Bicol. An hour and a half-hour drive from Legaspi is the municipality of Donsol. In 1997, the whale sharks that make Donsol's coastline their home was turned into a major eco-tourist attraction and enlivened this sleepy fishing town.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Locally known as a butanding (Rhincodon typus), so-called whale sharks are the world's biggest fish. They're marked by pale spots and stripes on its gray body. It feeds on planktons and other microscopic life forms that abound in the waters of Donsol. Butandings are an integral part of the sea's eco-system and a healthy indicator of the aquatic environment.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It was a humid morning when we arrived at Donsol Tourism Office. We filled up a form to assess our swimming abilities and paid for the boat and services of a local known as the Butanding Interaction Officer (BIO). Moments later, I was in the motorboat with Algie, Charlotte, Eric, Joseph, KM and Lala, friends from college and career out-of-towners who block off their weekends and holidays to explore the country.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">That morning, we were lucky. We sighted two butandings, magnificent and whale-like, they measured about 25 feet in length and 10 feet wide. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The fun part is actually swimming with these hulking creatures. Your designated Butanding Action Officer makes sure the activity is safe and memorable. I tried to do so myself but swimming isn't my strongest point so I ended up swallowing seawater. My friends, though, managed to catch a sight of them underwater.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">According to our BIO named Leo, the best time to see butandings is at 8 AM when there aren't many boats around. Whale sharks turn reclusive during low tide or when there are too many people swimming in their waters. Leo added that manta rays and dolphins are found in Donsol too. Although there are real sharks, they're spooked by butandings.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">For those who don't want to get wet, there are lots of other things to do aside from swimming with the butanding. The sight of Mayon and Bulusan volcanoes can be appreciated from the shores of Donsol, as are isles belonging to Masbate region.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">One can also visit Nahulugan Falls, which is a few hours away, as well as a mangrove forest close to Donsol Bay, where the twinkling of the fireflies at night can be a spectacle. The town also commemorates whale sharks with the Butanding Festival, held between January and March. Originally called the Arriba Festival, the word by which locals herald the arrival of butandings in Donsol, the event is highlighted by fluvial parade of life-size butandings and other sea species like the turtle.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">If you want to make the trip to Bicol, Legaspi City has a number of cozy accommodations, such as the Villa Angelina. Located a few blocks away from the Legaspi Plaza, this four-storey hotel boasts of quaint dining room, cozy bedrooms and classy bathrooms. Prices are reasonable.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">So these days, Bicol is no longer known as just the land of fire. Its water destinations guarantee tourists the best of elemental delights. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><strong>(First published in What's On & Expat on March 13-19, 2005)</strong></span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-49049423030517983992008-11-07T20:27:00.000-08:002008-11-07T20:34:39.841-08:00Los Baños Forest Club<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGi-_al6QJ1YB-e8KxoVlpbkVcauxco7T61GDx8xTiW-xE1UeTPW_wPGaDwfiW0FImF8ReBFNaBcxdJB9SqnnGM6nlSD8qsiJrISfrPWuaQ0nItJoRJVlRwelySTBcVRNbKQaFCWs37g0/s1600-h/Forest.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266140436331432546" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 206px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGi-_al6QJ1YB-e8KxoVlpbkVcauxco7T61GDx8xTiW-xE1UeTPW_wPGaDwfiW0FImF8ReBFNaBcxdJB9SqnnGM6nlSD8qsiJrISfrPWuaQ0nItJoRJVlRwelySTBcVRNbKQaFCWs37g0/s320/Forest.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Paradise around the corner</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Who would ever think that a rice field could be a tourist attraction? The late Antonio Mercado apparently did when he began building the Los Baños Forest Club at Bay, Laguna in the nineties. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The place is located between barangays Puypuy and Masaya in Bay, Laguna, about two hours drive from Metro Manila. Despite its proximity to the city, this pocket paradise has been a well-kept secret for years, just like Laguna’s other concealed wonder, the Hidden Valley in Alaminos. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">“My father was advised to take it easy after a quintuple bypass so he transformed this patch of rice field into a place where he can retreat and rest,” recalled Robbi Mercado, Antonio’s son and managing director of ARM Holding Inc., of which the Forest Club is a division. But as most good secrets go, this one couldn’t stay hush-hush for long. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Today, the club is open as a venue for corporate seminars and spiritual retreats. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Undoubtedly, the best feature of this two-and-a-half hectare club is the awesome sight of the Calauan mountain range. If the day is bright enough, visitors can even get a glimpse of Mount Banahaw. The sight of mountains soothes the weary soul. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Close to the entrance are recreation facilities such as a swimming pool that uses water from the hot springs. A two-story conference hall is intended for groups doing team-building activities. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">There is also dining hall nearby that accommodates 100 people. With fare consisting of meat and mountains of vegetables during our visit, I did not hear any of the guests complaining. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Finally, less than 100 meters away are cottages where the balcony is conducive to meditation. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Before reaching the paddies, visitors can linger by the lagoon and open hut where they can view the sunrise and sunset, times when the spot can be most enchanting. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">What remains of the rice paddies are today lined with walkways. Inspired by the Garden of Monet in Paris, the elderly Mercado covered the walkways with arched trellises and adorned them with gumamela flowers. What better way to enjoy the scenery than to stroll under it? </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">All around, the club teems with indigenous trees such as narra and palms, of which Antonio Mercado was fond. Some trees have been labeled to educate visitors. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Such thought to visitors are similarly given in privacy and space considerations. So if you think Laguna has nothing more to offer beyond the hot springs, check the Forest Club and change your mind.</span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><strong>(First published in Manila Times on January 14, 2005)</strong></span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-55890909811271270952008-11-07T20:17:00.000-08:002009-08-12T05:03:53.612-07:00Caraga<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3_pCCTmChD5m-eSz6mEFfe3fg-Sv9uNGxuvsoOzEWZjnXZrYT2Z7rHLWg_jDu-MgtvSHGY7dySp3QUCE4aVbwrDAFHo-BhAZcuMH5ktkg_l3z_UuigpHvxJ1dThlCrJv9hvhOi4RQlxc/s1600-h/Bislig.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266137505885120370" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 320px; height: 208px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3_pCCTmChD5m-eSz6mEFfe3fg-Sv9uNGxuvsoOzEWZjnXZrYT2Z7rHLWg_jDu-MgtvSHGY7dySp3QUCE4aVbwrDAFHo-BhAZcuMH5ktkg_l3z_UuigpHvxJ1dThlCrJv9hvhOi4RQlxc/s320/Bislig.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>The waters of Caraga</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The weather is the most unique feature of Caraga, the grouping of four provinces in northeastern Mindanao. There is no dry or wet season here, and you can't tell when there'll be a sudden rainfall. In Agusan del Sur, for example, a day isn't complete without a downpour or drizzle; so predictable is the rainfall that local claim that their climate is either wet or very wet. Caraga is also where two popular water attractions in the Philippines, Siargao, the so-called surfing capital of the country, and the Agusan marsh, known for its rich biodiversity, are found.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Travel south from the Surigao capitol and you'll come upon the Iron Mountain. It lies close to the Surigao del Norte-Surigao del Sur boundary and is nearly a thousand meters high and covered with pine trees, ironwood (magkono) and poyospos trees, whose flowers smell like the sweetest perfume. The view from the mountain affords a vista of some islands in the Pacific side of the province.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Surigao del Sur has numerous islets lined up close to its coastline, much like Pangasinan's Hundred Islands. Among them is Turtle Island in the municipality of Barobo, which has an outline akin to a turtle. A number of the islands, too, have features similar to Bohol's Chocolate Hills, like the Britannia Islets in San Agustin town. Twenty-for of these semi-spherical mounds are found there but only 11 are surrounded by water and powdery white sands.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Up north in Surigao del Norte is an unusual coast. The Filipinos' common conception of an enticing beach is blue sea and white sand. In Barangay Mabua, about a few kilometers away from the Surigao City proper is a kilometer-long tranquil beach line with round stones.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">One of the most spectacular sights in Caraga can be found at the top of a small mountain beside a town named Jabonga in Agusan del Norte province. It's most famous body of water is Lake Mainit, the fourth largest lake in the country. It is surrounded by the gorgeous peaks of Hibok-Hibok volcano and the serene Butuan Bay. To one side is the lake's outlet, Kalinawan River.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Is it any surprise then that the town festivals would revolve around water? The Kaliguan festival is celebrated in Cagwait town every June in honor of St. John the Baptist; here, visitors get an unwelcome drenching at the shore of its U-shaped beach. The only way out the of the ritual is if you willingly jump into the beach's water first.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">In Prosperidad, the provincial capital of Agusan del Sur, is the Gibong River. The river is bounded on two sides by two small mountains, and in some parts jagged walls covered by an overgrowth of plants and trees. It is thought that Gibong could have been an underground river whose cave ceiling collapsed millions of years before. In fact, at one part of the river remains partly submerged entrance to an underwater cave.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">A short boat ride down the river leads to Binaba Falls, a 200-foot waterfall which cascades down a small mountain slope. Its source is three underground creeks, one of which has now sadly been blocked by the construction of concrete stairs which were thought to help tourism in the area. What is left is a moist, almost barren, slope where cool waters used to run down.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">In the nearby municipality of San Francisco is also a source of local lore that has its basis in healing waters. Here rests the uncorrupted remains of Datu Anawa Kalipay, a “baylan” (mystic healer). It is said that when he was still alive, he datu used his special powers when he performed his rituals in the cave that bears his name. The cave is described to be generally wet and includes a water-sealed chamber, an underground creek and strange rock formations. It is said to be especially potent during Holy Week.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Located near the southernmost part of Surigao del Sur, at the end of a rocky and bumpy road is a town named Bislig, and the widest waterfalls in Mindanao, Tinuy-an Falls. Local residents call it the Niagara Falls of the Philippines. It's actually four waterfalls, the longest being 45 feet high; it is said to be the only place where you can actually predict the appearance of a rainbow (Tinuy-an's appears at around 9:00 to 11:00 AM).<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Even the most plain-looking terrain can offer a few surprises, like the road in Barangay Makiangkiang in Bayugan, Agusan del Sur. It is rocky, tedious and quite similar to any other dirt road in the Philippine provinces...until the road opens up to rows of anthuriums, a variety of cutflowers, white wildflowers and assorted orchids on endless beds of fine grass. A small waterfall accentuate the loveliness of the place. It was totally untended and unknown, but today, not unappreciated.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>(First published in Men's Zone Weekend Warriors on September 2004)</strong></span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-89038924358657773802008-11-07T20:08:00.000-08:002008-11-07T20:17:39.005-08:00Jabonga, Agusan del Norte<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSLqQpRip_mXxj-Zgb8KIcdsCTybpoKnArR8fs3tdIMqzbO0vBk9CafpVrMhR4l8p390bhj2_2NDjbMW4RHJIN9W6J1gV8NSg6QKxwo693uokgOZ0M8gcg-UZAXJiniBKNsUHDgswWZxQ/s1600-h/Jabonga.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266136007526481234" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 189px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSLqQpRip_mXxj-Zgb8KIcdsCTybpoKnArR8fs3tdIMqzbO0vBk9CafpVrMhR4l8p390bhj2_2NDjbMW4RHJIN9W6J1gV8NSg6QKxwo693uokgOZ0M8gcg-UZAXJiniBKNsUHDgswWZxQ/s320/Jabonga.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Check out Jabonga! A haven for the ecotourist</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Mark my words: Jabonga, Agusan del Norte will be the next biggest ecotourist destination in the Philippines. The nature lover is just beginning to discover this treasure in the Caraga region, and a lot of surprises await him. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Clear blue waters and a landscape rich in gentle slopes and abundant greens surrounds the town of Jabonga. Not far from the municipality is a handsome mountain, which provides a panoramic view of Lake Mainit, the third largest freshwater lake in the country. If mountaineering is not your thing, then a week-end drive along the national highway will also give you a splendid view of the lake. Either way, you will agree with me when I say that the picture you will see is truly breathtaking.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Endless natural wonders</strong><br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">In my recent trek up the mountain of Jabonga, every turn I made showed me one awesome sight to another.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">From the one spot where I stood, the lush peaks looked like graceful eyelashes from below. And as I turned a little to my right, another stunning view met my eye: The snake-like Calinawan River that settled boldly below the slopes.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">To my left were more natural wonders to see: The Butuan Bay and Camiguin’s Hibok-Hibok Volcano in the distant background. I thought then and there that Tagaytay’s view from its highest point—the Taal Lake and Volcano, specks of the Batangas countryside and Laguna de Bay in the distance—paled in comparison to what I saw.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">One of the mountains encircling Lake Mainit is the 1,850 meter high Mabaho, which is one of the tallest peaks in Caraga. Moreover, it is in this elevated region that Caraga’s endemic species (the </span><span style="font-family:arial;">Philippine Eagle among them) can be found.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The clouds were fun to watch too. At one moment, they billowed like waves above the towering peaks. Everything looked so peaceful, so calm, from up there.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>A trip to town<br /></strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">After the exhilarating nature trip, my host, Jabonga’s boyish-looking mayor Lolong Monton, took me to the town hall for refreshments. More sight seeing followed at the nearby parish church. The religious edifice, I was told, is the town’s most prominent landmark.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Our Lady of the Assumption Church is the oldest surviving church in Caraga. The Augustinian Recollect Friars built it in 1622, but the structure was eventually damaged in a fire. In 1878, the Jesuits rebuilt the Church using 14 types of hardwood, including narra, mangcono, tugas and bayong. Today, you will see an impressive altar made of 25 centimeter thick molave slabs. The beams and points are even thicker and are as hard as rock.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Beside the Church, meanwhile, is the municipal museum, housing artifacts that back to 1007 AD. The pieces, attest to a trade between Agusan del Norte and China and Vietnam.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">In the end, I was sad to leave the picturesque town and the lakes and hills of Jabonga. But luck was on my side when I boarded the Super Ferry. It was a beautiful night, and although there was not a star in the sky, lights from the lower lands of Jabonga shone from afar. I could almost make out the beauty that lay behind them. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><strong>(First published in Manila Times on September 24, 2004)</strong></span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-31140178673790001822008-11-07T19:57:00.000-08:002008-11-07T20:03:45.185-08:00Bohol<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge4p8w9vb4EsOLiHKKDAM-jOmnBSI4EwzXsxTpT5U5qUbyyZfdCuv4IttTLi21PImMrW47fEaWGwV2BTgN3USxnzoJgsTuYhLs_Yn7JTnGqayva7xFByv5IjibhwlqH3xYFbiBpj4eoBA/s1600-h/Bohol.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266132460861955762" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 204px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEge4p8w9vb4EsOLiHKKDAM-jOmnBSI4EwzXsxTpT5U5qUbyyZfdCuv4IttTLi21PImMrW47fEaWGwV2BTgN3USxnzoJgsTuYhLs_Yn7JTnGqayva7xFByv5IjibhwlqH3xYFbiBpj4eoBA/s320/Bohol.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Gaga over green in Bohol</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The green water, the woods, the verdant hills. They all come to life in Bohol.<br /></div></span><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">This southern isle is blessed with an eclectic range of both natural and man-made attractions, but the color green is what makes Bohol extra special. It’s everywhere in this part of the Visayas. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The Chocolate Hills may be “sweet” for their brown hue, but I felt lucky that I saw them green in our recent visit. The color made the famed natural wonder look fresh and vigorous, a breathtaking sight that made climbing the hills’ 213-step stairway less daunting and tiring.<br /></div></span><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Just as captivating are Bohol’s other sights.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The mahogany forest, which is situated between the municipalities of Loboc and Bilar, looks every bit a slice of the Middle Earth that Peter Jackson created for his screen adaptation of JRR Tolkien’s Lord of the Rings trilogy.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Its waterfalls, particularly Mag-aso in Anteguerra, are a flowing veil of emerald green, the same luminous green water that makes Loboc River so enchanting. And the whiteness of Balicasag’s beaches set against the greenness of the island’s lush vegetation paints a balance of hues that beggars description.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I tell you, these visions of green during my trip to Bohol emptied my mind of all other thoughts. It is true what they say about the relaxing effects of the color of trees!<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">But the province itself has a colorful past as evidenced by its centuries-old churches and the must-see Blood Compact Shrine.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">In Bohol, a visitor cannot help but to be in awe. It’s beauty does not fade when the sun comes down, the sea darkens, the sky turns to evening and the stars begin to twinkle. Bohol is green and gorgeous, night or day. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><strong>(First published in Manila Times on July 9, 2004)</strong></span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-54542295848538747122008-11-07T19:45:00.000-08:002008-11-07T19:55:52.904-08:00Cebu City<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPv5RZbNbV_8_1pqqSRFOLZ7yQouxFhqurbO3emap-lgpECVEn-uXa1VRi5AOGx1fxmxO9bmXCCdVgA_W5E-09pDnMD9XFkYTETgHzDUjohG_eRJVfN46SVjxvzOFXyEGTCodmbMnG_SM/s1600-h/Tops.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266130331808584818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 194px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgPv5RZbNbV_8_1pqqSRFOLZ7yQouxFhqurbO3emap-lgpECVEn-uXa1VRi5AOGx1fxmxO9bmXCCdVgA_W5E-09pDnMD9XFkYTETgHzDUjohG_eRJVfN46SVjxvzOFXyEGTCodmbMnG_SM/s320/Tops.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>View from Tops</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Cebu City reeks of history but on a higher level, the metropolis has a different, attractive look. That’s what I found out while on top of Tops. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Our guide, Val Alonzo, must have read my mind when I kept on looking at the mountain range not far away while we encircled the city to view the historical sites. He mentioned about the viewing site called Tops, adding that three-fourths of Cebu City comprises the elevated terrain that gives the capital a glorious look.<br /></div></span><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It was a sunny but humid afternoon when my mother, Aunt Lily and I went to Tops. I must’ve been obsessed about that place because I didn’t keep track of how long we traveled. Rows upon rows of stores, countless houses, trees—the sights came in rapid succession and were left behind just as rapidly. Even Beverly Hills where the eye-catching Taoist Temple stands offered just a momentary distraction. However, a plant piqued my curiosity.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I asked the taxi driver about the name of the plant which we spotted in clumps. Its gumamela-like flowers were pointing downward. He was clueless. Even the other Cebuanos I asked after the trip had no idea. It was only in Bohol, a few days later, when I learned that catchubong is what abounds in Busay Hills.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It was the sight of that odd flower that made me realize that the taxi we were riding was lost in a snake-like track up above. We caught a glimpse of Cebu City from time to time, but it wasn’t long before we arrived at our destination. All it took was P150 (P50 per head) to give us a satisfying traveling experience.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The view was undoubtedly breathtaking, but it was the semi-circular structure that grabbed my attention right away. A passage from a book I read not long ago crossed my mind: “A perfectly round line, no beginning, no end, no deviation. If expanded infinitely, it would become the universe.”<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Walking through the circular pathway of the resting shed was like being transported to another dimension. The shed’s stony arches had a resemblance to the megaliths (standing stones) in Europe. They evoked an aura of mystery. At the tip of Tops, the world revolves around Cebu City, neighboring Mandaue and nearby Mactan Island. With the surrounding mountains and sea, it felt like eternity—and a day.<br /></div></span><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I was busy clicking my camera when I came across a “friendship bell,” which could also be found on top of one of the Chocolate Hills. I didn’t bother to comprehend the instructions inscribed, but it made me wonder about its significance. For socializing perhaps?<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The sun was about to be submerged in the sea when we left. Val advised us to stay longer to witness a different nighttime view. It didn’t matter to us though. Passing through the old landmarks once more indicated that our trip had come full circle. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><strong>(First published in Manila Times on June 25, 2004)</strong></span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-67974339064573692572008-11-07T19:33:00.000-08:002009-08-10T08:45:36.140-07:00San Agustin, Surigao del Sur<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ynvomtaOKTeUOM8H-RlRwzktB5AQD3LkMBtojIFXEVA-QeHCzkugLduEiHUvpzr7OI7QE9PlfeLXkQwaiyGEseETt5HNkwN3pgVLsix1jQkAYlbr70quwZO7Qv63XU6xpDKMoIy-sZY/s1600-h/Britania.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266127311795056514" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 240px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0ynvomtaOKTeUOM8H-RlRwzktB5AQD3LkMBtojIFXEVA-QeHCzkugLduEiHUvpzr7OI7QE9PlfeLXkQwaiyGEseETt5HNkwN3pgVLsix1jQkAYlbr70quwZO7Qv63XU6xpDKMoIy-sZY/s320/Britania.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Islets of beauty and delight</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">There’s a site down south called The Untold Islands that need to be told to everyone. Those who think that Pangasinan’s Hundred Islands are one of a kind are in for a surprise when they set their eyes on the islets of Britannia.<br /></div></span><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Our sojourn to Britannia took roughly four hours, but I unfortunately forgot to ask the origin of the name during that time. My forgetfulness was due to being constantly distracted by the fascinating sights, but it did cross my mind that Britannia rhymes with (Encyclopedia) Britannica.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Britannia is one of the many barangays of San Agustin, a municipality located in the central region of Surigao del Sur. This province in eastern Mindanao is gifted with isles of various sizes along its coastal area but the ones in Britannia are the most enticing.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">There are 24 islets in existence but only 11 remain surrounded by the waters of the open sea. Some of them are semi-spherical in shape and have a slight resemblance to Bohol’s Chocolate Hills. A number of them are partly surrounded with white sands that glisten under the bright sun. However, we weren’t able to appreciate that view at first because dark clouds hovered above the islets when we arrived.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Provincial Tourism Officer Clara Ambray and Mercy Alameda, wife of San Agustin Mayor Manuel O. Alameda, opted to stay in the mainland while our group of five—guide Ace Orcullo, Bong Luna, Kim Mantilla, his friend and I—set off to our destination. I imagined what it’s like to set foot on that patch of white sand in the distant background while our boat plowed through the bluish-green sea but it turned out that our first stop was Boslon, the largest islet in the group.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Its beach may be less than 100 meters in length but walking on it felt heavenly—the sand was fine and powdered and the drizzle transformed its hue to cream. It was quite crowded with a few boats on the shore and locals frolicking or lazing around.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">On the rightmost side of the beach was a grotto with the statue of the Virgin Mary. I was unable to go near it because a small circle of people on the other end distracted us. We found out that they were fussing over a mound of small sea urchins that were just picked up from the sea. A fraction of the urchins were ripped open. We didn’t get the chance to find out how its meat tastes like because Ace pointed us to a pile of boulder-sized corals a few meters away. There was a narrow passage in the middle of it, where we squeezed our bodies a bit for a few minutes to able to set foot on the opposite side of Boslon.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I preferred this side of the islet, as a couple of other islets are not more than 200 meters away. They’re called Panlangagan. The mass of white sand—known as “Naked Islet”—can be seen better. It’s not the farthest from the Surigao mainland as I first thought, as Ace pointed his left forefinger to another islet a few kilometers to the left of Boslon. It seemed as big as Naked Islet but has vegetation in the middle. It’s called Bonbon, which is privately owned.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I was starting to enjoy the scenery when we noticed a few locals staring at us. They thought that some of us were Japanese tourists. There wasn’t enough time to reflect on that remark because we detected a lean, semi-circular path that connects Boslon to one of the Panlangagan islets. No one has an idea how long it is but our guide told us that it can be crossed during low tide and it’s during those moments that adventurous souls can explore Panlangagan. There is no white sand to look forward to but there’s a cave beneath the thick vegetation.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Our next stop was Isla Verde, which was located a few hundred meters northwest of Boslon. Among the vegetated islets, Isla Verde seems to have the longest stretch of beach (about 150 meters). Curiously, there were no visitors around when we arrived. Just like Boslon, Isla Verde offers a lovely view of the other islets and the mountainous Surigao terrain. To the left, I noticed an islet with a house, and I pointed this out to Ace. He said that it’s called Panas, but we couldn’t drop by anymore because it was nearly lunchtime.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The weather turned sunny when we returned to the small fishing village. We feasted on kiwali and alimasag while admiring the islets from afar. The low tide exposed about 200 meters of muddied sand, which complemented the view while the irregular-shaped clouds made a perfect backdrop. I thought that we would call it a day but our itinerary wasn’t over yet.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">We went to that coastal area where the islets no longer surrounded by seawater are located. Hidden within these lush surroundings is Davisol. Stone-carved structures made this community quite attractive. It looked like it was being developed as another tourist destination in San Agustin—there was a huge, rectangular-shaped hollow that could be a swimming pool in the near future. It was siesta time when we arrived there, which might be the reason why there were hardly any locals around to entertain us.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I headed toward a hill about 150 meters in height and that has a wooden house on its summit. The rest of the group declined to join me since they were already tired. Ma’am Lala offered me her hat to shield my slightly sunburned face. She brought me to a middle-aged man who would guide me on my way up. It was amusing that he neither talks nor understands Tagalog while I was still struggling to comprehend Bisaya. What we have in common was the dusty trail ahead of us.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I simply followed my guide as we slowly made our winding ascent to the top. Athletic bodies would take 15 to 20 minutes to reach the house but in my case, it was nearly twice as long. Hiking up wasn’t very difficult but the view below made me pause a number of times. I gazed around slowly after we made it.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The scenery was spectacular: the Britannia islets can be appreciated a lot more from the top. My only disappointment was that Naked Islet turned out to be a small patch of sand after all. The house was a resting hut for visitors and I stayed inside for a minute only, as I found out that the entire landscape below could be viewed better by standing on the rocky gate that surrounded the hut. It was quite risky taking photos while maintaining my balance and not letting the gusty winds knock me off.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I thought of lying inside the hut after I was done taking pictures but I sensed that my guide didn’t like to stay long. The descent was quicker and afterwards I declined an invitation from Ma’am Clara to visit a lanky house a few meters away from the hill. I wanted my sightseeing at the top of the hill to be my last image of my visit to Britannia.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It was “Next time!” instead of “Goodbye!” when we left the premises of San Agustin. We didn’t do any more swimming or islet-hopping—we’ll do all of that on our next visit. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><strong>(First published in Manila Times on November 13, 2003)</strong></span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-38786919858428181822008-11-07T19:14:00.000-08:002009-08-12T05:01:30.074-07:00Agusan del Sur<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS82rnnBl7LNDdrea2AfVkrQ0NLwLcS8Le0cPQDrveRuCvXiWwBwvHKhvdFaVbr6I1vBaX_ikS2-qe3KdO9qWzNwfy8jYoY4-SJ13MsBJBqSnLgbKmsRVZ3dkap_06e4m5tNQhLX3TGQM/s1600-h/Datu.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5266120953349431538" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 320px; height: 209px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiS82rnnBl7LNDdrea2AfVkrQ0NLwLcS8Le0cPQDrveRuCvXiWwBwvHKhvdFaVbr6I1vBaX_ikS2-qe3KdO9qWzNwfy8jYoY4-SJ13MsBJBqSnLgbKmsRVZ3dkap_06e4m5tNQhLX3TGQM/s320/Datu.jpg" border="0" /></a><span style="font-weight: bold;">Exploring Agusan del Sur</span><br /><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Agusan del Sur won’t elicit a second glance as one passes along the National Highway. All there is to see are kilometers of rice fields, numerous rivers and lush mountain ranges. However, the sight of both the toog and falcata, both found in that region only, is hard to ignore.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Then you’ll encounter a “Skylab,” which is what locals refer to a motorcycle with a wooden, rectangular board as long as the vehicle itself attached to both sides. It’s impossible not to get your eyes off passengers sitting on those boards. Then you’ll realize that Mindanao’s largest province is worth exploring.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">A journey along Agusan’s subsidiary rivers brought me to a young Manobo lass who has a small flower bud pursed between her lips. In their custom, it means she’s the most beautiful. At a slope near the Bayugan Poblacion lies Barangay Makiangkang, with a climate as cool as the Cordillera Region. The place abounds with attractive anthuriums, orchids and other eye-catching ornamental plants. Its gorgeousness is accentuated by the presence of a small, man-made falls.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">There’s more but I didn’t have enough time to explore further. Of my many recent journeys there, three struck me as both unusual and memorable.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Time travel</strong><br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Gibong River in the municipal capital of Prosperidad is a tranquil, brown-hued body of water hugged by two-short mountain ranges. The sides aren’t sloped, but more cliff-like with stalactites partly covered by plants. The river also has a number of small rocky islets.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Chito Indias theorized that Gibong could have been a huge underground river eons ago whose ceiling collapsed when the water receded. He pointed a cave about halfway from where we departed. It is nearly submerged but when the water level is low, daring souls can enter it and explore the mountain’s interior.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">We were on our way to Binaba Falls, which he recalled to be a magnificent site when he first set eyes on it a decade ago. It cascaded down a small mountain slope. Coming from three underground creeks. It is nearly 200 feet long. Chito’s wife, Jean, fondly remembered how she and her friends bathed there when they were young.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">A pool and concrete stairs were built to make the spot more accessible to visitors. Unfortunately, it affected the flow of one of the creeks such that it lessened the width of the falls. When our baroto (a local term for boat) arrived , the couple showed me a moist, almost barren slope where the cool water used to run.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Visitors won’t be able to appreciate the beauty of Binaba Falls from a distance because it is partly covered by trees. After docking, we climbed 116 steps–water from the falls run down the part of the stairs closest to the river. We hiked a few meters to the left of the falls’ topmost point to be able to reach the pool, which is abandoned and is slimy green in color. I imagined how fascinating the pool was when it was cleaner and there were eating sheds besides. Chito showed me one of the creeks and its source, which is within the mountain.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">After lunch, we walked back to the falls and then hiked about 150 meters further to the right to set foot on a clearing where there were man-made pools that cultivate carp and tilapia. The owner treated us to a local brand of puto while a turkey slowly walked around nearby. The thick vegetation camouflaged both this clearing and pool, as they can’t be seen from below.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">There are plans to reclaim the original look of Binaba Falls. One of the creeks may be redirected to join the other two. The present condition of the site is a shadow of Laguna’s Hidden Valley. A little makeover is what the place needs to make the falls very attractive again.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Exploring Azpetia<br /></strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Our adventure didn’t end at Gibong, as Chito took me to Azpetia, a barangay in Prosperidad, the following day. Both of us went there to see a hot spring. We walked through several kilometers of rice fields to reach it. Its curious feature is that this is a place where seawater and fresh water meet. No one had any idea how it could be possible as the Pacific Ocean is nearly 100 kilometers away.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The spring is located in a rice field. It has dead trees and plants floating in it. Chito checked the water’s temperature and found it to be lukewarm. An old farmer remembered the field to be a forest not long ago and all kinds of birds took a bath in the pond. Life was sucked out of it when the area began to be cultivated.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Not far from the pond is a small mountain range. A young lad and Aniseto (our Azpetia guide) led Chito and I to a cave that is found there. Aniseto led the way, as he brought along an “itak” (machete) to chop off the plants and woods that blocked our path. We entered the first opening they located underneath but we backed out after finding out that stalactites made the path too small for us to go through. We retraced our steps and returned to the rice fields. I thought we were through until our guide led us to a steep slope to climb. Another opening is found near the top.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">He was successful this time and we entered after a few minutes rest. It was my first time to explore a cave and I struggled to walk inside, as I had no headlight to see in the dark with. The path we tread was muddy and my rubber shoes nearly got stuck a number of times. Sounds of a flying creature coming close to my face made me a bit scared but Chito assured me that it was a sparrow and that a number of them lived inside.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The cave gradually becomes smaller as we walked further. Chito was kind enough to point his flashlight at the ceiling to show me the sparrow’s nest. It was about 200 meters from the opening when we began to crawl our way in. I surprised myself when I managed to pass through some narrow passages (I’m slightly overweight). I’m an adventurous spirit but I’m ashamed to admit that I was relieved when he told us that we couldn’t go on further because the path was too small and difficult to pass through.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Sliding down the slope was easier than climbing down. The small pool at the base washed off the dirt in my legs and soothed the blisters as well. We went back to the poblacion at lunchtime. After the meal, Aniseto told us about a waterfall located not far from the cave we explored. I was too tired from our visit to the pond and cave so I declined.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Both the pond and the cave are virtually unknown outside of Azpetia. Both the cave and the falls don’t have a name yet. Who knows how many unknown spots can be found there and in other parts of Prosperidad as well? Chito’s zest for discovering these places was infectious and I’m hoping for another adventure with him when another chance comes.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>The strange case of a dead datu</strong><br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Mount Durian in the neighboring municipality of San Francisco is where the remains of Datu Anawa Kalipay are found. Juancho Vicente told me that the datu is a baylan (Manobo priest) and that he was known for his generosity in his locality of Barangay Lucac. He died in his 120s. Many good things were said about him but what many people might remember him most is what happened after his death 4 years ago–his body hasn’t decomposed yet.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">We hiked a hard-soiled path frequently passed by carabaos and some locals. We got lost twice, which Mang Jeffrey jokingly blamed on his being engrossed in our conversations. Our journey hasn’t reached the half point yet but we were already depleted of our water supply. We strayed away from our path once to descend towards a nearby stream.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Slightly below the road, we rested for a bit underneath huge trees, ate the food we brought and drank the cool water from the stream. We resumed our trekking afterwards and we climbed Durian, which is a few hundred feet in height. It took us about two and a half hours to reach our destination. </span><span style="font-family:arial;">Juancho estimated our trek to be six kilometers.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">We arrived at a small clearing with limestones and what looked like rice plants with red or yellow flowers. A bahay kubo (native hut) stood amid it and only the datu’s grandson was around. He told us that the rest of his kin went to the poblacion to buy some things for their forthcoming annual ritual. After a brief rest, he led us to another bahay kubo a few meters away. The same limestones and colorful rice plants are found there but this one was distinguished with a small toog and marang trees guarding the entrance and a wooden fence surrounding the kubo. It was the datu’s mausoleum.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Its external features were curious enough to look at. The table and upper part of the wooden seats (where visitors can relax) are triangular in shape. An offering tray hangs above, which is shaped like a chicken’s body and has fowl feathers attached to it. Christmas silver linings shaped like a heart and a triangle hang on the door and window, respectively. Both the door and the windows were locked. One of the datu’s children has the key and she was among those who went to town but his grandson instructed me to climb up in able to position my face on the narrow opening between the roof and window where I can view the body a few meters away.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">A white-linen cloth covered it and a triangular-shaped wire fence protected the body. He said that it keeps off the rats, which chewed off a bit of the datu’s left cheek. I didn’t detect any rotten smell, which happens when a body is on a state of decomposition. Below the floor where the datu’s body lay were his wife’s remains. She died around 90 to 100 years old and her body hasn’t decomposed too. It’s also cloth-covered and wire-protected. The young man said that it was his grandfather who chose the site and how the kubo should looked like.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The triangle is a symbol of power in olden times and it’s known in Lucac that Anawa Kalipay had special powers. He performed his rituals in a cave named after him. It’s described to be wet and its special features include a water-sealed chamber, an underground creek and weird rock formations (according to Juancho who had been there many times). The family goes and stays in that cave every Holy Week.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">No one can explain the phenomenon yet but the Datu Anawa Kalipay Cave, the datu and his wife’s bodies are all being tapped as potential tourist spots of San Francisco. It is a strange case, and curiosity will be its drawing power. I expect more than a horde to be piqued by it. I was one of those. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><strong>(First published in Manila Times on August 22, 2003)</strong></span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-22771335198628336812008-11-07T07:38:00.000-08:002013-10-23T03:05:47.576-07:00La Paz, Agusan del Sur<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK-9S_PRcpZBwbVxVAIayMLA2oDhKCn-CiOIpANY8O_xAoUZgwDnDrYWo23juDsojhDhQPgrBmDPwmPLim3z1DI9OL5p-qi3sPau2zXdzCgChx-CEmI7pzfN1Zslrs5gHCeIdPL9fX6N4/s1600-h/Motong.jpg"><img alt="" border="0" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265942798797814434" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiK-9S_PRcpZBwbVxVAIayMLA2oDhKCn-CiOIpANY8O_xAoUZgwDnDrYWo23juDsojhDhQPgrBmDPwmPLim3z1DI9OL5p-qi3sPau2zXdzCgChx-CEmI7pzfN1Zslrs5gHCeIdPL9fX6N4/s320/Motong.jpg" style="display: block; height: 320px; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; width: 205px;" /></a><br />
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<span style="font-family: arial;"><b>The lumbia of the lake</b></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">We embarked on a trip to Lake Motong as early as 16 months ago, but we only made it halfway there because of problems with the boat’s engine. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Some of my companions were convinced that the forces of nature were not in our favor. After all, we had earlier been warned that one of us would not return in the event that we made it there. I was disappointed, but how does one contradict the legend surrounding the lake? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Motong is in the region of La Paz, one of the seven river municipalities of Agusan del Sur. It is said to be enchanted and that there are spirits guarding it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Consider this: the lumbia tress in the lake – their physical features identical to coconut trees but with a difference: the long leaves of the lumbia point upward - are regularly seen moving. The Manobos living in the area claim that the movements occur if anyone cuts any of the trees or kills any animals without seeking the spirits’ permission. Deaths have reportedly occurred, indicating the ultimate price paid by those who dared hard the lake’s ecosystem. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Our initial setback did not dampen my eagerness to get to Motong, and we made our second attempt one drizzly morning in March. La Paz Mayor Renato Munez kindly drove our group - Tourism Officer Joy Tolentino, her friend Donna, Cesar Allonder, Ali Tabacon and me - to Barangay Panangagan, where our “outboard” (the local term for a boat) waited. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">We passed four rivers - Adgawan, Hinayawan, Bubunawan and Tagacupan - before reaching the remote barangays of Langaslian and Angeles, where the lake is located. Along the way, I spotted some white egrets and small birds with a red-colored had and a turquoise-colored body. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">The river became narrow and shallow as we neared our destination. The surrounding landscape changed from green plains to small, lush mountains. We reached Motong creek after a voyage that lasted close to three and a half hours, under a glaring sun. I estimated that we traveled around 50-60 kilometers on the river. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">We walked barefoot on a rocky creek about 300 meters long. I was slightly uncomfortable but I was pushed to go on by the sound of a waterfall. In time, the sight of Motong Falls made the sunburn on my face, nape and arms more bearable. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">We gaped at the waterfall’s beauty. It is about 25 meters high, with green weeds scattered in the shallow area of the pool below. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Suddenly, dark clouds appeared overhead and raindrops fell. I was a bit worried but Joy assured me that we would not have difficulty climbing up. Besides, she said, rain was a good omen, a sign of welcome. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Fortunately, the rain lasted but a few minutes and the dark clouds dispersed. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">We took some photos, after which a Manobo accompanying us performed a strange ritual to ensure our safety from mishaps. We stood in front of a deity carved from the branched of a sagay (an itch-causing plant) and before which four lighted candles and a few eggs had been placed. He chanted a prayer, picked up a rooster and waved it at each one of us. Then he slit its throat, let the blood drip on a plate into which he dipped his left forefinger, and made a cross sign on the left foot of each member of the party. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">After the ritual, Joy gave Ali and me three 1 peso coins that, she said, we should throw into the lake as an offering. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">And then we were ready to go. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">We climbed up earthen stairs with a rope to assist, an experience like walking up Banawe’s rice terraces. After about 10 minutes, we found ourselves a few steps away from the tip of the waterfall. Joy said we were standing at the mouth of the lake. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">We walked a muddy path of about 200 meters accompanied only by the chirping of a cricket. Joy led the way, saying that the path would take us to a spot with a better view. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">There, standing on a floating guiho (wood used for making chopping boards), we saw a profusion of lumbia trees as well as dragonflies colored, red and blue and transparent. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">I was a bit startled when Joy pointed to a clump of lumbia a few meters to our right and said that when she and Mayor Munez visited last February 4, the clumb was further to the left. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">She said there was a balete tree hidden within the clump. I looked, but didn’t see it. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Soon two bamboo rafts arrived, on which we were to explore the area. We admired the tree-covered mountains surrounding the lake, whose shores are populated with lumbia about 10 meters tall. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">According to Joy, Lake Motong is around three kilometers long and about 100 meters wide. The subsidiary creeks are its source, and the waterfall its outlet. It is believed that the lake is deep, but no scuba diver has ever gone down to measure its depth. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Another eye-catching tree is the lanipao - not much leaves but with branches and leaves extending horizontally, resembling parallel lines. We also saw some huge yakal and narra trees. Except for a small slope where the trees had been cut, the rest of the landscape seemed untouched. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">It is true that in many rural areas, tranquility is the norm. But in Motong it was unnaturally quiet. We heard nothing but the sound of the oars in motion and the barking of a dog from the lone bahay kubo on the shore. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">The stillness made me a bit uneasy, and my mind raced with questions: what lies beneath the surface? What it’s like to spend the night there? </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">At least those who live in the kubo could answer the last one. One tale often told is that one moonlit evening they heard the rhythmic beat of a drum, which had such a hypnotic effect that it moved them to dance. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Our rafts went as far as a few hundred meters away from the guiho on which we stood. We didn’t venture farther because we didn’t want to be late in returning to Panangagan. On the slow way back, Joy pointed out to me three more clumps of lumbia that are said to move. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">By the looks of it, and going by the stories that many will doubtless scoff at, those trees are standing in strategic spots, as though they were guardians of the lake. The mayor has a rational theory to offset the strange stories: the roots of the lumbia are attached to logs underwater, and they movie when the current is strong. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">After our descent, we had a quick lunch while the Manobo who earlier performed the ritual chanted a thanksgiving prayer. I caught a last glimpse of the waterfall before we left. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">The Manobo people consider Motong a sacred place. On the local government side, a resolution has been passed declaring it a forest reservation and water storage area. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">Despite the distance (the road that connects La Paz to the National Highway is 60 kilometers long and the length of the river traverses makes it more than 100 kilometers), the place has the potential to be a tourist attraction. Motong Lake and Falls may be the local counterpart of New Zealand’s deep-blue, bowl-shaped Lake Quill and its outlet, the lofty Sutherland Falls. </span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;">There are plans to build some cottages there for visitors who intend to stay longer to enjoy the view and do some fishing. Indeed, a few days’ stay there would make up for the lengthy trip just to view this eerie lake and its splendid falls.</span></div>
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<span style="font-family: arial;"><b>(First published in Philippine Daily Inquirer on August 3, 2003)</b> </span></div>
Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-71188535961382166682008-11-07T07:33:00.000-08:002008-11-07T07:37:28.944-08:00Butuan, Agusan del Norte<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdZvnx1TnIs34KB8Eu1RvFdWeqmgJlujJtPmL16GFNhHnegwRm1iaYBz7G1_ESO1zhg779APJj1pXtLGYDmyv4xnKP6yX-wKQzhUqrBQoy_4UpRkFEU6dIX9R9Zu7DaAEWW6Te_W8Ctzg/s1600-h/Butuan.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265940155190300402" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 205px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjdZvnx1TnIs34KB8Eu1RvFdWeqmgJlujJtPmL16GFNhHnegwRm1iaYBz7G1_ESO1zhg779APJj1pXtLGYDmyv4xnKP6yX-wKQzhUqrBQoy_4UpRkFEU6dIX9R9Zu7DaAEWW6Te_W8Ctzg/s320/Butuan.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Butuan's storied past</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">There’s a hill in Butuan where a huge cross lords over the surrounding trees. It’s facing a mountain range in the distance where an eye-catching, plateau-topped peak stands out from that elevated region. Both the Bood Promontory and Mount Mayapay are prominent sights in Agusan del Norte’s capital. Both also signify the city’s unique attraction to visitors: a glorious past that compensates for its lack of natural wonders.<br /></div></span><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Is Butuan akin to Mexico’s Indian civilizations that flourished before Hernan Cortes’ arrival? Artifacts that were unearthed seem to point to that comparison; its regional museum’s stored historical and cultural materials prove Butuan’s prehistoric existence.<br /></div></span><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">But it is the balangays that might be Butuan’s biggest claim to pre-Hispanic fame.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">These wooden plank-built and edge-pegged boats average 15 meters in length and three meters wide across the beam. Nine have already been discovered in Sitio Ambangan, Barangay Libertad, which is near the Butuan Bay shores. The oldest among those excavated is about 1,650 years while the latest is about 700 years old. The vessels represent the main mean of transportation in our islands thousands of years ago.<br /></div></span><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">History Professor William Henry Scott noted in his treatise called Boat Building and Seamanship in Classic Philippine Society that the design of the balangay and its variations were of the same, basic style as the boats of the early Vikings, those Scandinavian seafaring warriors that colonized wide areas of Europe from the 9th to the 11th century. So it doesn’t seem remote to imagine that while our seafaring forefathers were navigating within the warm, tropical areas of the Pacific Ocean in balangay boats, at about the same time in the far, northern region of the Atlantic Ocean, the Vikings were riding around the cold, Scandinavian coastlines on wooden seacraft designed similarly as the balangay.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">According to Chinese records (“Song Shi”/Sung History), Filipinos went to China before the Chinese came to our country. It describes Butuan (“Pu-duan”) as a small country in the sea to the east of Champa (South Vietnam), farther than May-I (Mindoro). A record on March 17, 1001 A.D states the arrival of King Quiling to China by means of balangay boats for a trade mission via Champa. A Butuan-China Friendship Arch will soon be erected near the domestic airport to commemorate the tribute mission of the Butuanons to China a millennium ago.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Another historic landmark is Ferdinand Magellan’s staging of the first Catholic Mass in the Philippines but it’s a controversial issue because history books and our government recognize the isle of Limasawa in southern Leyte as the site of the first mass. A priest happens to have a pile of proofs to bolster Butuan’s legitimacy.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Not far from the Agusan River is St. Joseph Cathedral. What would distract the devotees’ pious concentration are framed documents hanging near the entrance door. The writings feature the church’s history but the bulk of it shows scientific evidences that point to Butuan as where Magellan and the rest of the Spanish fleet landed before sailing to Cebu.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Reverend Father Joesilo C. Amalla gave a Mass during one fine Sunday evening and he invited me to the Diocesan Ecclesiastical Museum afterwards, which is located besides the church. A lot of stuff can be written about it, as the museum showcases collections of religious and liturgical arts and materials that were used by religious missionaries in Agusan and Surigao. But it’s Fr. Amalla’s words regarding the First Mass issue that attracted me most. It’s impossible for my sight to wander once he spoke because his pace of talking is fast and he’s more than voluble. For a moment, the priest turned into a scientist pounding off information faster than the speed of light (pun not intended as an offense).<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The historical basis for locating the first Easter Mass dates to the diary of Antonio Pigafetta called First Voyage Around the World. Pigafetta was an Italian traveler who joined Magellan’s global voyage and was also among the few survivors who returned to Spain. American scholar James A. Robertson translated the Pigafetta manuscript and there’s a possibility that he made some mistakes because he wasn’t well acquainted with the Philippines. The most glaring of these mistakes is interpreting Mazaua, which Pigafetta and the other members of the crew called the mystery isle, as Limasawa.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Specifically, the following issues being disputed (on why the Mass wasn’t held in Limasawa, Leyte) are: (1) the name itself; (2) the travel time between the places visited before and after Mazaua; (3) the latitude position given by the voyagers; (4) the condition of the voyagers in arriving at the place; and (5) the geographical features of the place as described by those who were there.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">An article regarding the issue was written by Sonia Zaide, daughter of historian Dr. Gregorio F. Zaide, published in Starweek Magazine in November 5, 1988. She lengthily discussed those five issues. But it was her father’s admission that a mistake was made in accepting Robertson’s interpretation that proves to be her article’s most revealing fact.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Fr. Amalla added that Limasawa could be passed by if one takes a ferry ride from southern Leyte to Lipata, Surigao City. His description, as well as the other locals of Caraga I asked about, is that the isle is rocky and not as fertile as what Pigafetta recounted. On the other hand, the present geography of Mindanao reveals no islands in Butuan Bay. So how could the Agusan capital be the one?<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">He presented another batch of evidences showing how the landscape of northeastern Mindanao is different 5 centuries ago. It revealed some parts of the Butuan region as islands during the eve of Spanish colonization, gradually integrating to the Mindanao mainland as the century progressed (continental drifting is the scientific term for that). One of these islands is Masao, which fits Pigafetta’s descriptions.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I didn’t find it hard to believe because on a trip to Surigao del Sur, I encountered numerous vegetated hills, a few of them awkwardly located in long stretches of rice fields. A closer look at the lower parts reveals coral-like structures that hint at the possibility that these hills were surrounded by seawater a long time ago. Passing by Dinayhugan Dam in the northern municipality of Carrascal confirmed my hunch. A huge cliff overlooks the dam and the Dinayhugan River. One of the town’s oldest citizens told me a story he heard from his grandfather: the cliff once served as the locals’ fortress against sea-traveling enemies. No need to go near to detect the coral-like features of the cliff.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">So what happened to Masao isle after the passing of the centuries? Experts believe that the Bood Promontory, which is not far from the National Highway and facing the lovely view of Mayapay and its neighboring peaks, could be the present site where Magellan staged the first Easter Mass. A cross approximately close to 7.5 meters in height was erected there and a park is being added as well, which is near completion.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">As for Masao, it turns out to be an idyllic barangay by the seaside many kilometers away from the historic hilltop. Its small grandstand has sketches of Magellan’s landing and Easter celebration. The beach may not be blazing in sparkling whiteness but there’s a gorgeous view of Agusan’s mountain range on the right and Camiguin Island’s Hibok-Hibok Volcano on the left.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">During the recent anniversary celebration of the First Easter Mass, Fr. Amalla pointed out that the embroiling dispute shouldn’t distract everyone from the fact that the numerous artifacts in preservation is proof that the Philippines, like ancient China and India, wasn’t a nonentity before the Europeans discovered Asia and that should be what the locals of Butuan should be celebrating.</span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><strong>(First published in Manila Times on August 1, 2003)</strong></span> </div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-53932939797893692452008-11-07T07:26:00.000-08:002008-11-07T07:32:55.329-08:00Bislig, Surigao del Sur<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDn5aVE-6kYMX9GzWU0fEfwP2Bljpv9beCr02MJYdpkjyRAW9QnTdfPkoPrV3hSbd712D1GnMeyez_nOj6-RGEkf336NKWAh9BZQhsox9-C4se5AealHJ44dL4vznm-9FoULyBBRvqOCo/s1600-h/Hagonoy.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265938739746807970" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 204px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDn5aVE-6kYMX9GzWU0fEfwP2Bljpv9beCr02MJYdpkjyRAW9QnTdfPkoPrV3hSbd712D1GnMeyez_nOj6-RGEkf336NKWAh9BZQhsox9-C4se5AealHJ44dL4vznm-9FoULyBBRvqOCo/s320/Hagonoy.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Why Bislig is a must-see</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The road to Bislig is a long one–and still not cemented. I found out during one sunny Sunday afternoon, when all the bumps gave me a dizzy sensation that made me wonder if I was traveling a never-ending highway. Daylight was fading when the wheels of the pick-up truck finally touched the concrete path. And at last, our destination was close by.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Bislig is near the southernmost tip of Surigao del Sur. It became a chartered city on September 18, 2000. My visit lasted barely a day and a half, which I am told isn’t enough to be acquainted with the place. Still, I felt as if time stood still when I saw two of Bislig’s most attractive spots. They made me want to stay forever.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Our local Niagara</strong><br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Some locals in Agusan del Sur recommended a site in Caraga (the popular name of northeastern Mindanao), which they boast is the Niagara Falls of the Philippines. The aerial shot of this body of water at the lobby of the Paper and Country Inn Hotel further piqued my curiosity, and I wondered whether my newfound friends were merely exaggerating.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">But I was not disappointed. Tinuy-an Falls could arguably be the most beautiful waterfalls in the Philippines, and still its existence is virtually unknown beyond Mindanao.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The waterfalls are 19 kilometers away from the main road. If your vehicle is going to the direction of Tinuy-an, you’ll see a long stretch of rice fields to your right. At some point on the left, you’ll see a water reservoir of PICOP (Paper Industry Corp. of the Philippines). There is also an abundance of coconut trees, as well as falcata (a slender version of a malunggay tree), mangium and bay-ang, which is curious to look at because their branches and leaves are shaped like an inverted open umbrella.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Our van passed three barangays (San Isidro, Mone and Burbo-ana) on the way to Tinuy-an. We headed towards a small mountain range where the waterfalls are found. The first sighting was overwhelming: There stood the three-tiered waterfalls. I was standing close to the falls at first, which is about less than three meters in length, and approximately nine meters wide.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Edwin and my two other guides, Lorelei and Dodong, then gestured me to follow them. Between the first and second falls is a stream of about 100 meters in length. There are two falcata trunks that lie across them. We used one of the trunks to cross the stream, which was a bit slippery, while we used the second one to keep us balanced. It was on the left bank that one would be able to appreciate the view of the second falls.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The second falls is the tallest and definitely the most breathtaking. It’s close to 14 meters high and nine meters wide. Facing it is a pool that has a depth of nine meters. According to Lorelei, there is a shallow path where the water drops and visitors can cross it or position themselves to feel the thud of the water.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Above the second falls is third one, which is less than three meters in height as well. Edwin said there is actually a fourth falls, which can’t be seen from where the van was parked. Apparently, there’s also a different route to it.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">My guides then encouraged me to take a dip in the pool but I couldn’t keep my eyes off the falls.<br />Lorelei recalled that a group of foreigners go there yearly, who all wait patiently for a rainbow to appear between nine and 11 in the morning. It was bad luck that it didn’t show up when I was there.<br />With the gradual influx of tourists, not much has been built around Tinuy-an to make it comfortable to them. There is, however, a plan to build a watchtower there. Other than that, city officials think it best to keep the area in its natural state with lots of vegetation, in order for visitors to appreciate its true beauty.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Coastal sightings</strong><br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">On a clear, bright day, Bislig Bay looks enticing for exploration, and exactly what we did when we made our way there the next morning.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Initially, it took us about 45 minutes to reach Hagonoy Island, which is one of the numerous isles and islets that line the coast of Surigao del Sur. It’s a pearl-shaped isle that has an area of one hectare. Vegetation, consisting mostly of coconuts, abounds in the center. Our boat soon landed on a white-powdered beach that is less than 150-meter long. Minutes after our arrival, Edwin and Bong accompanied me to stroll around the isle.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">There is a tinge of red in the sand when we encircled the right corner. The opposite side is both rocky and filled with corals. We spotted tiny crabs and thick-bodied starfishes. It took us about 20 minutes to walk the entire coastline. It was lunchtime when we returned. It was also during that time that the water level near the shore gradually receded.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Before returning to the mainland, we passed by a hut on stilts that breeds milkfish (popularly known as bangus). Each succeeding cage showed the growth of the fish.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">When we finally had our fill of coastal sightings, everyone was tired and wanted to rest, but we met a certain Dolores Marcojos who invited us for another nearby trip that should not be missed.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>View from PICOP</strong><br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The Paper Industry Corporation of the Philippines (PICOP) is 54 hectares wide. Marcojos toured us around the area and then took us first to the manmade coast way, where visitors can savor the bay up close and feel the sea breeze at the same time. It was a nice view but it was the Bayview Hill not far away that caught my attention.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The entire PICOP compound can be seen from up there. Bislig Bay looks lovely from above while Hagonoy seemed like a speck. Not far away is another islet in the neighboring municipality of Hinatuan. We drove around the village where PICOP employees live. Marcojos recalled monkeys littering the roadsides before but she said that they must have gone into seclusion when people began to arrive.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">As I walked around, thoughts about Tinuy-an Falls and all the other sights came to mind again. While I thought I would never return to Bislig while I was on that bumpy road, seeing Tinuy-an changed everything. The long journey is definitely worth it.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>(First published in Manila Times on July 18, 2003)</strong></div></span>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-5655432847615205442008-11-07T07:16:00.000-08:002008-11-07T07:25:12.362-08:00Paete, Laguna<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifi84TL47PG8i_ywLM5LEe_blqW3uY8gqvaisO-_RSj-KXwBFITjCjGj0Ix9QTfpoq6_1AnoOjp3Ozar81kbjhZ3EDdXd8fASans3MDJBp-cnKlRLr_9mG5oOLCIcgneMwAFI02yNGxxQ/s1600-h/Ukit.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265936995779352818" style="DISPLAY: block; MARGIN: 0px auto 10px; WIDTH: 320px; CURSOR: hand; HEIGHT: 216px; TEXT-ALIGN: center" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifi84TL47PG8i_ywLM5LEe_blqW3uY8gqvaisO-_RSj-KXwBFITjCjGj0Ix9QTfpoq6_1AnoOjp3Ozar81kbjhZ3EDdXd8fASans3MDJBp-cnKlRLr_9mG5oOLCIcgneMwAFI02yNGxxQ/s320/Ukit.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Laguna one more time</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">My family and I used to go to Laguna during weekends and the hot spring resorts and Mount Makiling are what I remember most from those trips. The province is located just outside Metro Manila, making it a frequent destination of urban dwellers. There are many places of attraction: Hidden Valley, Mount Banahaw, the seven lakes around San Pablo, and Pagsanjan Falls, to name a few.<br /></div></span><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">My fascination for Laguna waned after I visited Ifugao and Zambales provinces and certain parts of Mindanao. Not even a few days' stay at the Los Ba¤os Forest Club at Bay a few years ago rekindled my enthusiasm-until recently when the monsoon rains made Metro Manila a truly bleak place to live in. Dennis had invited me to a trip to Paete. I wasn't very excited, thinking there was nothing new to expect. I was wrong.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Somewhere between the Sierra Madre lies the town of Paete. When we arrived the dark clouds overhead made the mountain range look more imposing. A couple of tricycles took us to Exotik, a restaurant situated on a slope and a perfect spot to appreciate the municipality. The area includes multiple open-air cottages of various sizes (from the topmost cottage, one can view the landscape around Laguna de Bay and the old church bell tower that some residents claim was built during the Spanish era), an artificial waterfall with a stream below that cascades into a lovely pond, lush flora, and assorted animals (check the crowd-drawer-an Indian python named Samantha).<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The restaurant is famous for its food (for example: fried breaded frog legs that taste like crisp chicken). I became hooked on the mango juice and told owner Roi Ema so.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">But it is Exotik's gorgeous wood designs that show what Paete is most known for. The name of the town comes from the Spanish word "paet" (for "chisel"). The roadsides abound with woodcarving shops and souvenir stores, and even the churches feature carvings that tell stories about the town's heritage.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The stories reveal wood as the soul of Paete, but our visit was anything but wooden. One realizes, of course, that our wood supply is finite. The townsfolk, however, make use of other materials for their carving expertise, and we witnessed it one unpredictable morning.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The clouds indicated that rain was likely but the humidity was quite unbearable when we traversed a narrow road leading to a basketball court hemmed in by a roofed stage and the town hall. Blocks of ice rising to nearly four feet were lined on the court ground, carvers in white T-shirts were gathered around them, and spectators circled the scene. A brief rain shower had many of them dashing to the nearest shelter but they returned shortly afterward. And the Ukit (Carve) Festival began.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Jude busily moved around taking pictures while we stayed put right below the stage to avoid the stifling heat. It was amazing how vigorously the contestants applied themselves to carving those ice blocks under less than ideal conditions. Nearly an hour later we inspected the assorted figures, delighting in the artwork.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">We weren't quite through when another batch of contestants began to chip away at new ice blocks.<br />But nature wasn't kind. A heavy rain fell, dispersing the people from the court area and leaving only a few watching from the stage. Nonetheless, the contestants' determination didn't waver and they were nearly through by the time the sun shone again.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The judging of the entries was marked by intermittent rain. As we expected, the figures of Pegasus and an Indian warrior took top honors.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The next day Inier insisted that we visit Lake Caliraya rain or shine before heading home. We rode past rain-soaked slopes covered by coconut trees and a small bridge nearly inundated by a raging river. The driver of our van might've been so absorbed by our conversation that he overlooked the lake. We arrived at an almost deserted resort and walked on the brick-red soil toward the lake.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Caliraya is man-made, which makes it impressive. I had no idea how huge it actually is. I admired the sight of the pine trees on our left side.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Raymond explored the area east of the resort while we enjoyed the view from one of the sheds close to the shore. Not one of us seemed willing to leave, with no signs of sunny weather ahead and Jude telling us a bittersweet story about someone he knew. If it weren't for the security guard who reminded us that the sheds were off-limits to visitors, we might've stayed longer.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It was raining hard when we dropped in on Mayor Elmoise Afurong preparatory to leaving Paete. The terrace is the best feature in the house. It offers an excellent view of Laguna de Bay, as well as the water lilies below and the mountain range on one side.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The mayor invited us to stay for lunch but we demurred. One of his visitors urged us not to leave, citing reports he had heard that parts of Metro Manila were flooded. We said we would have loved to stay but that we weren't on vacation...<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The van was about to enter the South Superhighway again when I wondered what was the most lasting image of our trip. I could not decide if it was Samantha, the Sierra Madre, or the mango juice. Then I remembered our last night at Exotik. The lights put a spark to the place but it was the full moon close to the top of the slope that made the moment sumptuous. How unfortunate that my camera was unable to capture it. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><strong>(First published in Philippine Daily Inquirer on December 11, 2002)</strong></span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-58330043790193081442008-11-07T07:08:00.000-08:002009-08-12T05:03:24.059-07:00Manila to Butuan<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-uw3d0-1SJinmrEa5NsY1HG0dEm7qBVS58a_J3SvY9am64-qmPg_kTf5y5kqelDRJd8z1AWO3VLNmylEtgVOX2txypOjmIS2488redqi3en11jlhAHQgFYYVmV7M0X1HQHNpGzUWfCEE/s1600-h/Isle.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265934493104265330" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 320px; height: 205px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-uw3d0-1SJinmrEa5NsY1HG0dEm7qBVS58a_J3SvY9am64-qmPg_kTf5y5kqelDRJd8z1AWO3VLNmylEtgVOX2txypOjmIS2488redqi3en11jlhAHQgFYYVmV7M0X1HQHNpGzUWfCEE/s320/Isle.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Isle watching</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Islands are the most distinctive features about the Philippines, and our isles make an interesting study with more than 7,000 of them.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">A domestic air flight - assuming you're on the window seat - provides an aerial glimpse of various sizes, the geographical characteristics and attractive qualities of the archipelago.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">But it's through sea voyage where one gets to appreciate more the islands' beauty, which I experienced out early this year during ship journey to Davao City that allowed me to view up-close the mountain ranges that shield some of Mindanao's coastal areas.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I took a Manila-Butuan route on my second trip to Mindanao. It was exciting as the first voyage as the SuperFerry traveled through the Visayas, which is made up of a cluster of isles. Majority of our islands are in this region, and as I found out, I was looking for more upon my arrival in Agusan del Norte.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Tuesday morning was a sight to see with a couple of twin peaks that greeted me less than 500 meters away from the ship. I thought that I was looking at Romblon until someone from the crew told me the ferry was in Sibuyan Sea facing one side of Sibuyan Island. The not-so-distant isle at the back of the ship could be Romblon.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Not far from Sibuyan was a tiny isle with about one-fourth of its coast in sand, while the rest was rocky. It looked uninhabited.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">My father grew up in Iloilo and he once told me that Boracay and Sicogon are the two well-known beach resorts in the area.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">What happened to Boracay is history, while Sicogon's fame turned into virtual obscurity. However, there's more to it: Sicogon is in the northeastern side of Panay and it is one of a bunch of islands in that area.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">My father said one island named Gigantes (Giants) has a beach that would rival Boracay's but it can't be developed as it is a bit far away from Panay.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It was nearing lunch time when the SuperFerry navigated the Jintotolo Channel, which was less than 400 meters away from an isle with small mountains and lagoons.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I asked one of the ship's crew if we were passing by Gigantes island as there were numerous isles near the one closest to the ship. He nodded but he corrected me that it's pronounced "Higantes", not "Gihantes".<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The sun was oppressive as passengers opted to wait outside for lunch. I picked a shaded area outside to marvel at the scenery.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Admittedly, it was hard to tell if there were fascinating beaches in Gigantes from where I was positioned. An intent searching for nearly an hour of any white feature yielded nothing. A closer look or a top view would saitsy my curiosity but it was the surrounding that kept me interested.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">To the distand right of Gigantes and closer to Panay was an isle with no uneven features but it was surrounded by white sand. It may not be shiny white as the one I spotted in Sarangani Strait last January but it might be Sicogon Island.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Closest to Gigantes was an islet that looked like a tip of a submerged mountain. The entire side was rocky and it was hard to imagine any animal dwelling there from the quantity of vegetation atop. Maybe some birds use it as their nest.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It was after lunch when the SuperFerry was at the northern part of Cebu. Just like in Mindanao, much of the land was lush but even, which made it not so attractive.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The Cebu landscape became more interesting to look at when the ship was close to Mactan Island. This is where passengers would notice numerous hills that resemble the Chocolate Hills in Bohol. The sight keeps getting better as the ferry gradually encircled the Mactan Island en route to Cebu City.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Bing Bernabe, whom I shared the cabin room with her family, talked a bit about Mactan. She pointed to me an abandoned hotel and a nearby building where a resort was not far away from it.<br />She added there are nice beaches on the opposite side of the island. One could seee on the other side of the ship the mountainous side of southwestern leyte in the far distance and the flat outline of Bohol a few kilometers ahead.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Numerous islets are spotted near Mactan. There is a small number that have a rocky side similar to the one besides Gigantes while at the southern end of Mactan is an atoll with greenish dots scattered around.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The area reminded me of Agusan Marsh and the fishermen in that may have set them up but it looked like a miniature version of the Pacific isles.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">At the background is Cebu City, where the afternoon sun gave it a glorious look. Numerous buildings standing in the nearby mountain reminded me of Baguio City and a bridge connecting Cebu and Mactan can be seen as the ferry slowly approached the port.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The best about a three-hour stopover in Cebu City is the chance to visit SM City Cebu, which is about 300 meters away from the port.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It was early evening when the ferry left Cebu. Many passengers woke up at 5 AM the next day as the crew conducted a fire drill.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I was still sleepy but excited in looking at the Surigao landscape that looked ethereal when the morning rays of the sun slowly cast a light on the misty mountains and the idyllic place.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">We were at the provincial capital of Surigao del Norte but it looked like a small town to me, a comforting thought to someone who wanted to escape the metropolis from time to time.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The ship departed for Agusan del Norte shortly after sunrise. It didn't turn out to be a sunny morning, as dark clouds gradually hovered over some of the islands off the Surigao coast.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The conditions made Dinagat island a surreal sight. I was excited looking at the other isles and the surrounding water, thinking that the Pacific Ocean wasn't far away.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">There was a drizzle as I saw the last of the clustered isles.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Just like the western and southern region, the northeastern side of Mindanao is mountainous but the rain and the clouds covering the top of the range made the coast looked imposing than majestic.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Mr. Bernabe caught our attention to the sight of a flying fish less than 50 meters away from the ship. Then we saw a small group of dolphins (lumba-lumba in local term).<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">She told me Lake Mainit is on the other side of the mountain range we were passing by. It's a sign that we were between Surigao del Norte and Agusan del Norte.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The drizzle stopped when she told me to go the other side of the ship to view Hibok-Hibok volcano in the far distance, a sign that we were about to enter Butuan Bay.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I didn't expect anything new upon arrival since this was my second time to set foot in Mindanao.<br />But as we came closer to the light green mountains in Nasipit, I was surprised to find out that the ferry wasn't docking in Butuan City and I don't see any familiar faces to fetch me.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I have some apprehension on commuting from Nasipit to Butuan City to Agusan del Sur for the first time, but Miss Bernabe doused my fears as she insisted I join their family jeepney where they took me to the Butuan bus terminal.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I learned something upon boarding an air-conditioned bus to San Francisco, Agusan del Sur: every travel offers an array of discoveries.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It made me wondered what our other isles looked like before my attention shifted to the mountains ahead of the national highway. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>(First published on Business World Weekender on November 8-9, 2002)</strong></span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-16886233830458934832008-11-07T07:03:00.000-08:002009-08-12T05:02:29.793-07:00Prosperidad, Agusan del Sur<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5rHEuQ6YfRLLjoLvZhbIElUOXDsDWFVvGf20qpvCyO_5qzrQ6Tf5t-U9fIzfzT-u4VF9OBg24PwJKEdRsB4WHKUMUXlI4AVLg_HK8J2pSojSjIAD_8vjJDU3mLoFcG3_0JW-Djpn7R8/s1600-h/Tugonan.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265932442356965410" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 320px; height: 233px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiR5rHEuQ6YfRLLjoLvZhbIElUOXDsDWFVvGf20qpvCyO_5qzrQ6Tf5t-U9fIzfzT-u4VF9OBg24PwJKEdRsB4WHKUMUXlI4AVLg_HK8J2pSojSjIAD_8vjJDU3mLoFcG3_0JW-Djpn7R8/s320/Tugonan.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>The hidden wonders of Tugonan Falls</strong></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">After spending more than two days on the Super Ferry en route to Davao City, I couldn’t blame Jocelyn for falling asleep during our evening journey to Agusan del Sur. I felt tired from the long trip too; but I couldn’t close my eyes because both of us were setting foot inMindanao for the first time and I couldn’t help feeling excited about it.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Not much can be seen at nighttime, even if Fe Tan-Cebrian, Provincial Tourism Operating Officer (PTOO) of Agusan del Sur, told us at one point that we were passingMount Diwalwal. She also warned us in advance not to expect any beach, as Mindanao’s largest province is landlocked. But we found out later that Agusan del Sur has plenty of attractive sites to offer.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Mountains seem to surround most of the province’s boundary, which shields Agusan del Sur from typhoons. But a typical days isn’t complete without a drizzle or heavy rainfall. As many of the locals told us, there are two climates in their province - wet and very wet. This makes the southern region look like a catch basin, as rainwater goes down from the mountains. Flooding is not a rare occurrence.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The Agusan Marsh is most popular to outsiders but Ma’am Fe claims there are other spots that can match some of our country’s best tourist sites. It’s logical to assume that lots of mountains and water means there are waterfalls that are waiting to be discovered. The one we visited is located in Prosperidad, which is the provincial capital; but just like Surigao City, this municipality looks rustic and idyllic like many of the towns we passed by.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It was a sunny Friday morning when we first dropped by the town hall to meet the municipal mayor and his Tourism Council staff who accompanied Jocelyn and I toTugonan Falls . We were both surprised to find out that we would be riding on motorcycles, which is a form of public transportation in some parts of this province. It was my first time to ride on one, and it was perfect for the next adventure that we were just about to undertake.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">We first dropped by a gas station a kilometer away from the town hall to fill the gas tanks. My right shoulder stiffened from having my right hand hold the back handle, so I chose to put my arms around Jocelyn during the succeeding minutes of our trip; she was sandwiched between the driver and I. We next stopped by a small carinderia to buy some lunch. While waiting for our orders, I started at theGibong Bridge, which looked like it was made as a shortcut to the Philippine Normal University located on the other side of the Binaba River.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">After packing our food, there was no stopping from going to Tugonan Falls. The journey via motorcycle is an adventure by itself, as we passed by partly constructed roads, rice fields, coconut trees, stretches of falcata (used for making paper, pencils and toothpicks), and a few toog trees, which is only found in Agusan del Sur. I even encountered a few motorcycles loaded with five persons (including the driver). The sun was getting brighter but I didn’t mind, as the strong gush of wind made the whole voyage fun.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">After about 20 kilometers, we entered a narrow, muddy road that is approximately a couple of kilometers long. The terrain was uneven and there were many turns. I imagined we were part of the latest episode of “Survivor”. It was almost an hour when we reached Barangay San Lorenzo, the community nearest toTugonan Falls.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The place was grassy, the houses were quite scattered, and the domesticated pigs and chickens were bigger compared to the ones I see in Metro Manila. We rested under some shade beside a sari-sari store, and waited for our guide to take us toTugonan Falls . He turned out be middle-aged, wearing a white, barong-like polo, back pants, and calf-high boots. He brought a kid who turned out to be the one who would lead us. He said that on a straight path, the distance between Barangay San Lorenzo andTugonan Falls is three kilometers long. But that wasn’t the case.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">We entered a terrain that was both vegetative and uneven. The path was muddy and slippery and a couple of the Tourism Council staff opted to walk barefoot. My Nike running shoes were soon covered with brown mud and I had to hold on to some branches or partly-cut trees, as I nearly slipped on a number of occasions.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Our first stopover was a barren field. I felt like my waistline shrank by about an inch. We asked the kid how far we were from the site and he answered, “Not much”. In provincial lingo, that means we have a long way to go, as rural folks are accustomed to walking long distances.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">After resting for about 20 minutes, we entered another vegetative region. I don’t know if it was the mud or the slightly-steep path that made me breathed heavily. I was about to request for another rest stop when we heard a loud rush of water. Our guide said that we weren’t far away. The last few meters were the most difficult part of the trek, as we slowly descended towards a rocky stream. The sight of the falls a few meters in front of us was an ample reward for our difficulties.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Tugonan Falls is about 40 to 50 feet in height; and below is a stream that leads to another falls, this one about five to seven feet, that cascades into a pool of emerald green water. Our guide climbed up a bit and carefully walked closer to the falls. He encouraged us to join him but we were all too tired to move and find out how deep the pool is. I just stood with my aching feet getting soothed by the rush of the cool water.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">I looked around and noticed that above the falls where tall tress where wild ferns hang suspended in the air. I got the impression thatTugonan Falls is located deep in the heart of a small forest. Richard Sombrio, who has been our frequent companion in most of our visits to Agusan’s attractive sites, remarked that monkeys are found in the trees here. I didn’t hear the familiar sound of their voices though, probably because there were scared of our presence. The only animal I encountered was a dragonfly, which hovered above us for some seconds. It was only about an inch long but its bright blue-violent wings caught my attention. It added a bit of sparkle to that place.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">After we were through with our lunch and a few photo shots, it was time to leave. Climbing up was as hard as going down - we had quite a struggle crossing over a fallen log. After the ascent, we descended down a barren slope that led to a stream. A bridge is located above it but it is only made of three bamboo poles - two for crossing and one for a handle to keep you from falling. No one knew how fragile the bridge was so we crossed it one at a time.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">A few minutes after we passed the bridge, a light drizzle began to falls. I panicked a bit, as we were all aware that it would make the muddy path more slippery. It was a good thing that it only lasted for a while but we had a tough time struggling to climb up a muddy slope. There was a house and shade at the top and we took another rest. I took a last at the small forest whereTugonan Falls is found. It was a great site but Richard said that not many could go there because only the adventurous could trek the path.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">Another rest led us to another tiring trek. Jocelyn was so desperate to get out of the muddy trail that she shouted her frustration a few times. She was so tired that some of the motorcycle drivers who joined in our adventure aided her a couple of times. One of the female staff of the Tourism Council asked me if I was sick, as she couldn’t help but noticed the ragged breathing that showed my exhaustion. I told her that I could still hold on, as we weren’t far away from Barangay San Lorenzo.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">It was close to four in the afternoon when we made it back. We went to the nearest water pump (poso) to scrub off the mud on our feet and legs. I felt so high that I didn’t mind holding on to the back handle when we rode the motorcycle again. We all thought our adventure for that day was over but we were wrong. As we were passing by the narrow, muddy road, our motorcycle slipped and we fell on a small pond of muddy water. Jocelyn tried hard to keep herself calm while I couldn’t help but feel amused especially at the sight of the approaching water buffalo (carabao). But it was a smooth ride from then on.<br /></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:arial;">The afternoon sun was still bright when we rode back over Gibong Bridge. Ma’am Fe was there to fetch us and she noticed how our faces got tanned from the adventure. She said that we were scheduled to travel on theBinaba River and go to Binaba Falls . I had to tell her evening was approaching so we decided to call it a day. There will be a next time, and I thought that our trip toTugonan Falls was so memorable that I will reminisce about it during the coming rainy days. </span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"></span></div><br /><div align="justify"><span style="font-family:Arial;"><strong>(First published in Manila Times on October 11, 2002)</strong></span></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-2143266579910110258.post-7528382900785183342008-11-07T06:46:00.000-08:002009-08-12T05:02:48.099-07:00San Francisco, Agusan del Sur<div align="justify"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgom-m9Pmi3srkpiDDfaU9EsRkwo62NDeZtc4pf9GzntJT6UovYhjSy9yhWqEgVeBJZrGXb46_Dz8T5GFHdrhKPC0eyEjiMdhohCotgv5iZ0-d3FF0TyncZFKCGeO0CxT8t-Q92ylFIzu4/s1600-h/Diwata.jpg"><img id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5265928995287608242" style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; width: 320px; height: 207px; text-align: center;" alt="" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgom-m9Pmi3srkpiDDfaU9EsRkwo62NDeZtc4pf9GzntJT6UovYhjSy9yhWqEgVeBJZrGXb46_Dz8T5GFHdrhKPC0eyEjiMdhohCotgv5iZ0-d3FF0TyncZFKCGeO0CxT8t-Q92ylFIzu4/s320/Diwata.jpg" border="0" /></a><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>Enchanted on Diwata</strong></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Mountains surround most of Agusan del Sur but between the municipalities of San Francisco and Rosario lies Mount Diwata. It stands apart from the nearby mountain range visible near Rosario, and it’s impossible to keep one’s eyes off it as one travels on the National Highway in Barangay Patin-ay.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Diwata stands close to 2,000 feet and offers a number of enticing features to those who dare explore it. For one, there is the Boys Scout camping site, now named theDatu Lipus Macapandong Eco-Tourism Park, where visitors can both enjoy the cool waters of the mountain and be mesmerized by a view of its summit. Some residents of San Francisco claim that trekkers will be rewarded with the discovery of a waterfall, of which there is an abundance in Mindanao ’s largest province. There is also talk about sect members living somewhere up the mountain, and whose church is supposedly shaped like Noah’sArk.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Imagine what other discoveries can be made if one goes by the legend of Diwata being a giant’s burial ground. It isn’t hard to visualize. Diwata actually bears a slight semblance toMount Makiling, and its strong potential as a major tourist draw of Agusan del Sur is the reason why Governor Adolph Edward Plaza launched the “Stairway to Heaven” project during the recent Naliyagan Festival. The project involves the construction of concrete stairs and resting shed for those who want to immerse themselves in the mountain’s beauty. That is the provincial government’s vision for the future, but for now, first-time visitors have to rely on those who have climbed Diwata - and this is where the San Francisco Mountaineering Club (SFMC) comes into the picture.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The SFMC, formed last summer, is headed by Juancho Vicente. There are so many mountains in Diwata, but what better way for the group to mark Agusan del Sur’s founding anniversary than climbing Diwata?<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Mist is covering the Government Center when I arrived in San Francisco one cold Saturday morning. There are 25 of us in the expedition, and our starting point is a small forest of palm oil trees along the San Francisco-Rosario boundary. We are divided into two. I joined the first group.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The gradually ascending path is easily distinguished from the grassy surroundings that we pass through. The view of the palm oil trees below is quite breathtaking. At halfway point we can still see the trees, but not the second group. After waiting for nearly half an hour, we decided not to tarry any longer (our leader said the two groups will meet at the Philcom building, which is near the summit).<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Now the climb has turned steep, and coconut trees, shrubs and grass have replaced the palm trees below. A few meters before we reached Philcom, some of us attempted to contact the other group through a walkie-talkie, mobile phones, even shouts - without success. We have yet to reach the top but the second group is already making its own adventure below.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">After another rest period of almost 30 minutes, we headed for the Philcom building, which we can see right above us. An exhausting climb of about 15 minutes took us almost to the top. Ecstatic at getting that far, I turned around to behold my reward - and discovered that clouds completely blocked the view.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">But gradually, the clouds dispersed to reveal the Agusan landscape. The view kept getting better and I was almost bursting with pride at completing the trek to witness it, but my pride was quickly deflated when another group made up mostly of women and children ambled towards the Philcom building. Our leader asked one of the women if they met the second group on the way. Negative.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Our leader decided to stay at the building and wait, and 12 of us decided to proceed to the summit. Now we were in the hands of an old man named Jeffrey who was clad in a long-sleeved sweater and jogging pants? Myself? I wore a sleeveless undershirt and shorts. It was only at Diwata’s peak that I realized why Mang Jeffrey was dressed that way.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">We were unable to see the clouds at the top because it was heavily forested, but we felt a slight chill. We walked on a ridge about 12 inches wide. I took note of the lawaan trees we passed, as well as a number of interesting plants such as romblon and rattan.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">The romblon plant appears identical to a pineapple plant. Mang Jeffrey told me it’s used for making mats (banig). Then he directed our attention to a plain-looking plant, which, he warned, will make us itch on contact. Looks can really be deceiving.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">But apart from these and an eye-catching butterfly with a red-colored body and black wings, our surroundings did not serve to fully distract us from the narrow ridge we treaded. It was snake-like, and I can’t recall how many turns we made. Mang Jeffrey occasionally hacked tree branches and leaves to make our trek less difficult.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">A number of times we went down one ridge and climbed another. It was during those times that I chose to inch downward, letting my buttocks push slowly so not to suddenly slide off. A memorable moment came up when we came upon a fallen wood. Mang Jeffrey said he can’t tell the depth below, so he advised us to find another trail. But Father Gabby said we should go forward for experience’s sake.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">In the end, I find out that it wasn’t as deep as Mang Jeffrey thought. One of us smiled a clownish smile when I took a photo of the rest who struggled to make it to the other side of the wood.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Our water supply runs out. After we made another descent, Mang Jeffrey pointed us to a stream nearby. He positioned his left hand just below the water’s surface to filter out the bits of earth. It took only a few seconds to fill each of our bottles. I gulped the water, savoring the coolness and ignoring the slight earthen taste.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">Another upward thrust led us to a grassy field. Mang Jeffrey said we were at the nape of Diwata. We have crossed the summit for almost two hours. The clear path was before us again, making me quite unmindful of where I stepped. At one point in the path that is covered with tall grass, my right foot strayed and I nearly fell off.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">We reached a partly built house around noon. Mang Jeffrey told us that this is where we should take a long break before proceeding.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">While we ate, my eyes feasted on the awesome sight - the mountainous terrain of Surigao del Sur, the Philippine Sea and Turtle Island. But dark clouds gradually moved towards where we were, signaling that we should get moving.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">It was close to 1 PM when we began our descent. We saw a clear path once more, but Mang Jeffrey said he knows of a short cut. We have no idea that it would turn out to be our most unforgettable experience on Diwata.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">We detoured from the path and get reacquainted with the ridge. But I noticed that Mang Jeffrey cut down more branches and leaves more often than before, belying his claim that he passed this trail before. When I told him this, he said this is what mountain climbing is all about and I am unfit for it. I was on the verge of retorting that it wasn’t my fault if the LRT and MRT are the only places I climb, but I bite my tongue and instead focused on reaching the base.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">It was also at this point that I didn’t mind my skin getting in contact with romblons and rattans (I can withstand blisters, but not a fall). But I wasn’t spared slipping off many times).<br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">We negotiated a step downhill path that led us to a stream glistening from the shiny black basalt rocks underneath. From here, Mang Jeffrey said, we would reach the base in the shortest time.<br />But the stream descends sharply and the rushing waters do nothing for our balance despite our spiked shoes. There were no plants to hold on to. I was close to Mang Jeffrey during most of the trek, which means that I was in front of the pack most of the time. It was at the stream that I became fed up with being front man, so I let Father Gabby and his five young wards go down first.<br /></span><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">We forged ahead, carefully choosing the rocks to step on. At one instance, Mang Jeffrey put down a big tree branch for us to walk on. In one area, some of us chose to crawl on the grassy sides. It was during these moments that Mang Jeffrey positioned himself below us and volunteered to serve as a human bridge to ease our difficulty. I admit that the act erased whatever animosity has built up towards the old man. Furthermore, Father Gabby constantly kept our spirits up with inspirational remarks peppered with scientific observations.<br /></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">It was part 4 PM when we reached the base. I was surprised that I still have the energy left to walk a few hundred meters. The back of my shorts has been ripped off, but everyone was too tired to notice. My legs and right shoulders were blistered, but I wasn’t bothered. </span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;">We neither saw the waterfall nor met the sect members, but there are enough reasons for climbing Diwata again. I thanked Mang Jeffrey for his efforts but I didn’t tell him what was on my mind - I’ll be glad to take him to any LRT or MRT station in case he visits Metro Manila.</span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"></span><br /><br /><span style="font-family:arial;"><strong>(First published in Philippine Daily Inquirer on September 29, 2002)</strong> </span><br /></div>Franzhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/15327497800349040502noreply@blogger.com0