La Paz, Agusan del Sur

The lumbia of the lake

We embarked on a trip to Lake Motong as early as 16 months ago, but we only made it halfway there because of problems with the boat’s engine.

Some of my companions were convinced that the forces of nature were not in our favor. After all, we had earlier been warned that one of us would not return in the event that we made it there. I was disappointed, but how does one contradict the legend surrounding the lake?

Motong is in the region of La Paz, one of the seven river municipalities of Agusan del Sur. It is said to be enchanted and that there are spirits guarding it.

Consider this: the lumbia tress in the lake – their physical features identical to coconut trees but with a difference: the long leaves of the lumbia point upward - are regularly seen moving. The Manobos living in the area claim that the movements occur if anyone cuts any of the trees or kills any animals without seeking the spirits’ permission. Deaths have reportedly occurred, indicating the ultimate price paid by those who dared hard the lake’s ecosystem.

Our initial setback did not dampen my eagerness to get to Motong, and we made our second attempt one drizzly morning in March. La Paz Mayor Renato Munez kindly drove our group - Tourism Officer Joy Tolentino, her friend Donna, Cesar Allonder, Ali Tabacon and me - to Barangay Panangagan, where our “outboard” (the local term for a boat) waited.

We passed four rivers - Adgawan, Hinayawan, Bubunawan and Tagacupan - before reaching the remote barangays of Langaslian and Angeles, where the lake is located. Along the way, I spotted some white egrets and small birds with a red-colored had and a turquoise-colored body.

The river became narrow and shallow as we neared our destination. The surrounding landscape changed from green plains to small, lush mountains. We reached Motong creek after a voyage that lasted close to three and a half hours, under a glaring sun. I estimated that we traveled around 50-60 kilometers on the river.

We walked barefoot on a rocky creek about 300 meters long. I was slightly uncomfortable but I was pushed to go on by the sound of a waterfall. In time, the sight of Motong Falls made the sunburn on my face, nape and arms more bearable.

We gaped at the waterfall’s beauty. It is about 25 meters high, with green weeds scattered in the shallow area of the pool below.

Suddenly, dark clouds appeared overhead and raindrops fell. I was a bit worried but Joy assured me that we would not have difficulty climbing up. Besides, she said, rain was a good omen, a sign of welcome.

Fortunately, the rain lasted but a few minutes and the dark clouds dispersed.

We took some photos, after which a Manobo accompanying us performed a strange ritual to ensure our safety from mishaps. We stood in front of a deity carved from the branched of a sagay (an itch-causing plant) and before which four lighted candles and a few eggs had been placed. He chanted a prayer, picked up a rooster and waved it at each one of us. Then he slit its throat, let the blood drip on a plate into which he dipped his left forefinger, and made a cross sign on the left foot of each member of the party.

After the ritual, Joy gave Ali and me three 1 peso coins that, she said, we should throw into the lake as an offering.

And then we were ready to go.

We climbed up earthen stairs with a rope to assist, an experience like walking up Banawe’s rice terraces. After about 10 minutes, we found ourselves a few steps away from the tip of the waterfall. Joy said we were standing at the mouth of the lake.

We walked a muddy path of about 200 meters accompanied only by the chirping of a cricket. Joy led the way, saying that the path would take us to a spot with a better view.

There, standing on a floating guiho (wood used for making chopping boards), we saw a profusion of lumbia trees as well as dragonflies colored, red and blue and transparent.

I was a bit startled when Joy pointed to a clump of lumbia a few meters to our right and said that when she and Mayor Munez visited last February 4, the clumb was further to the left.

She said there was a balete tree hidden within the clump. I looked, but didn’t see it.

Soon two bamboo rafts arrived, on which we were to explore the area. We admired the tree-covered mountains surrounding the lake, whose shores are populated with lumbia about 10 meters tall.

According to Joy, Lake Motong is around three kilometers long and about 100 meters wide. The subsidiary creeks are its source, and the waterfall its outlet. It is believed that the lake is deep, but no scuba diver has ever gone down to measure its depth.

Another eye-catching tree is the lanipao - not much leaves but with branches and leaves extending horizontally, resembling parallel lines. We also saw some huge yakal and narra trees. Except for a small slope where the trees had been cut, the rest of the landscape seemed untouched.

It is true that in many rural areas, tranquility is the norm. But in Motong it was unnaturally quiet. We heard nothing but the sound of the oars in motion and the barking of a dog from the lone bahay kubo on the shore.

The stillness made me a bit uneasy, and my mind raced with questions: what lies beneath the surface? What it’s like to spend the night there?

At least those who live in the kubo could answer the last one. One tale often told is that one moonlit evening they heard the rhythmic beat of a drum, which had such a hypnotic effect that it moved them to dance.

Our rafts went as far as a few hundred meters away from the guiho on which we stood. We didn’t venture farther because we didn’t want to be late in returning to Panangagan. On the slow way back, Joy pointed out to me three more clumps of lumbia that are said to move.

By the looks of it, and going by the stories that many will doubtless scoff at, those trees are standing in strategic spots, as though they were guardians of the lake. The mayor has a rational theory to offset the strange stories: the roots of the lumbia are attached to logs underwater, and they movie when the current is strong.

After our descent, we had a quick lunch while the Manobo who earlier performed the ritual chanted a thanksgiving prayer. I caught a last glimpse of the waterfall before we left.

The Manobo people consider Motong a sacred place. On the local government side, a resolution has been passed declaring it a forest reservation and water storage area.

Despite the distance (the road that connects La Paz to the National Highway is 60 kilometers long and the length of the river traverses makes it more than 100 kilometers), the place has the potential to be a tourist attraction. Motong Lake and Falls may be the local counterpart of New Zealand’s deep-blue, bowl-shaped Lake Quill and its outlet, the lofty Sutherland Falls.

There are plans to build some cottages there for visitors who intend to stay longer to enjoy the view and do some fishing. Indeed, a few days’ stay there would make up for the lengthy trip just to view this eerie lake and its splendid falls.

(First published in Philippine Daily Inquirer on August 3, 2003)

Butuan, Agusan del Norte

Butuan's storied past

There’s a hill in Butuan where a huge cross lords over the surrounding trees. It’s facing a mountain range in the distance where an eye-catching, plateau-topped peak stands out from that elevated region. Both the Bood Promontory and Mount Mayapay are prominent sights in Agusan del Norte’s capital. Both also signify the city’s unique attraction to visitors: a glorious past that compensates for its lack of natural wonders.

Is Butuan akin to Mexico’s Indian civilizations that flourished before Hernan Cortes’ arrival? Artifacts that were unearthed seem to point to that comparison; its regional museum’s stored historical and cultural materials prove Butuan’s prehistoric existence.

But it is the balangays that might be Butuan’s biggest claim to pre-Hispanic fame.

These wooden plank-built and edge-pegged boats average 15 meters in length and three meters wide across the beam. Nine have already been discovered in Sitio Ambangan, Barangay Libertad, which is near the Butuan Bay shores. The oldest among those excavated is about 1,650 years while the latest is about 700 years old. The vessels represent the main mean of transportation in our islands thousands of years ago.

History Professor William Henry Scott noted in his treatise called Boat Building and Seamanship in Classic Philippine Society that the design of the balangay and its variations were of the same, basic style as the boats of the early Vikings, those Scandinavian seafaring warriors that colonized wide areas of Europe from the 9th to the 11th century. So it doesn’t seem remote to imagine that while our seafaring forefathers were navigating within the warm, tropical areas of the Pacific Ocean in balangay boats, at about the same time in the far, northern region of the Atlantic Ocean, the Vikings were riding around the cold, Scandinavian coastlines on wooden seacraft designed similarly as the balangay.

According to Chinese records (“Song Shi”/Sung History), Filipinos went to China before the Chinese came to our country. It describes Butuan (“Pu-duan”) as a small country in the sea to the east of Champa (South Vietnam), farther than May-I (Mindoro). A record on March 17, 1001 A.D states the arrival of King Quiling to China by means of balangay boats for a trade mission via Champa. A Butuan-China Friendship Arch will soon be erected near the domestic airport to commemorate the tribute mission of the Butuanons to China a millennium ago.

Another historic landmark is Ferdinand Magellan’s staging of the first Catholic Mass in the Philippines but it’s a controversial issue because history books and our government recognize the isle of Limasawa in southern Leyte as the site of the first mass. A priest happens to have a pile of proofs to bolster Butuan’s legitimacy.

Not far from the Agusan River is St. Joseph Cathedral. What would distract the devotees’ pious concentration are framed documents hanging near the entrance door. The writings feature the church’s history but the bulk of it shows scientific evidences that point to Butuan as where Magellan and the rest of the Spanish fleet landed before sailing to Cebu.

Reverend Father Joesilo C. Amalla gave a Mass during one fine Sunday evening and he invited me to the Diocesan Ecclesiastical Museum afterwards, which is located besides the church. A lot of stuff can be written about it, as the museum showcases collections of religious and liturgical arts and materials that were used by religious missionaries in Agusan and Surigao. But it’s Fr. Amalla’s words regarding the First Mass issue that attracted me most. It’s impossible for my sight to wander once he spoke because his pace of talking is fast and he’s more than voluble. For a moment, the priest turned into a scientist pounding off information faster than the speed of light (pun not intended as an offense).

The historical basis for locating the first Easter Mass dates to the diary of Antonio Pigafetta called First Voyage Around the World. Pigafetta was an Italian traveler who joined Magellan’s global voyage and was also among the few survivors who returned to Spain. American scholar James A. Robertson translated the Pigafetta manuscript and there’s a possibility that he made some mistakes because he wasn’t well acquainted with the Philippines. The most glaring of these mistakes is interpreting Mazaua, which Pigafetta and the other members of the crew called the mystery isle, as Limasawa.

Specifically, the following issues being disputed (on why the Mass wasn’t held in Limasawa, Leyte) are: (1) the name itself; (2) the travel time between the places visited before and after Mazaua; (3) the latitude position given by the voyagers; (4) the condition of the voyagers in arriving at the place; and (5) the geographical features of the place as described by those who were there.

An article regarding the issue was written by Sonia Zaide, daughter of historian Dr. Gregorio F. Zaide, published in Starweek Magazine in November 5, 1988. She lengthily discussed those five issues. But it was her father’s admission that a mistake was made in accepting Robertson’s interpretation that proves to be her article’s most revealing fact.

Fr. Amalla added that Limasawa could be passed by if one takes a ferry ride from southern Leyte to Lipata, Surigao City. His description, as well as the other locals of Caraga I asked about, is that the isle is rocky and not as fertile as what Pigafetta recounted. On the other hand, the present geography of Mindanao reveals no islands in Butuan Bay. So how could the Agusan capital be the one?

He presented another batch of evidences showing how the landscape of northeastern Mindanao is different 5 centuries ago. It revealed some parts of the Butuan region as islands during the eve of Spanish colonization, gradually integrating to the Mindanao mainland as the century progressed (continental drifting is the scientific term for that). One of these islands is Masao, which fits Pigafetta’s descriptions.

I didn’t find it hard to believe because on a trip to Surigao del Sur, I encountered numerous vegetated hills, a few of them awkwardly located in long stretches of rice fields. A closer look at the lower parts reveals coral-like structures that hint at the possibility that these hills were surrounded by seawater a long time ago. Passing by Dinayhugan Dam in the northern municipality of Carrascal confirmed my hunch. A huge cliff overlooks the dam and the Dinayhugan River. One of the town’s oldest citizens told me a story he heard from his grandfather: the cliff once served as the locals’ fortress against sea-traveling enemies. No need to go near to detect the coral-like features of the cliff.

So what happened to Masao isle after the passing of the centuries? Experts believe that the Bood Promontory, which is not far from the National Highway and facing the lovely view of Mayapay and its neighboring peaks, could be the present site where Magellan staged the first Easter Mass. A cross approximately close to 7.5 meters in height was erected there and a park is being added as well, which is near completion.

As for Masao, it turns out to be an idyllic barangay by the seaside many kilometers away from the historic hilltop. Its small grandstand has sketches of Magellan’s landing and Easter celebration. The beach may not be blazing in sparkling whiteness but there’s a gorgeous view of Agusan’s mountain range on the right and Camiguin Island’s Hibok-Hibok Volcano on the left.

During the recent anniversary celebration of the First Easter Mass, Fr. Amalla pointed out that the embroiling dispute shouldn’t distract everyone from the fact that the numerous artifacts in preservation is proof that the Philippines, like ancient China and India, wasn’t a nonentity before the Europeans discovered Asia and that should be what the locals of Butuan should be celebrating.

(First published in Manila Times on August 1, 2003)

Bislig, Surigao del Sur

Why Bislig is a must-see

The road to Bislig is a long one–and still not cemented. I found out during one sunny Sunday afternoon, when all the bumps gave me a dizzy sensation that made me wonder if I was traveling a never-ending highway. Daylight was fading when the wheels of the pick-up truck finally touched the concrete path. And at last, our destination was close by.

Bislig is near the southernmost tip of Surigao del Sur. It became a chartered city on September 18, 2000. My visit lasted barely a day and a half, which I am told isn’t enough to be acquainted with the place. Still, I felt as if time stood still when I saw two of Bislig’s most attractive spots. They made me want to stay forever.

Our local Niagara

Some locals in Agusan del Sur recommended a site in Caraga (the popular name of northeastern Mindanao), which they boast is the Niagara Falls of the Philippines. The aerial shot of this body of water at the lobby of the Paper and Country Inn Hotel further piqued my curiosity, and I wondered whether my newfound friends were merely exaggerating.

But I was not disappointed. Tinuy-an Falls could arguably be the most beautiful waterfalls in the Philippines, and still its existence is virtually unknown beyond Mindanao.

The waterfalls are 19 kilometers away from the main road. If your vehicle is going to the direction of Tinuy-an, you’ll see a long stretch of rice fields to your right. At some point on the left, you’ll see a water reservoir of PICOP (Paper Industry Corp. of the Philippines). There is also an abundance of coconut trees, as well as falcata (a slender version of a malunggay tree), mangium and bay-ang, which is curious to look at because their branches and leaves are shaped like an inverted open umbrella.

Our van passed three barangays (San Isidro, Mone and Burbo-ana) on the way to Tinuy-an. We headed towards a small mountain range where the waterfalls are found. The first sighting was overwhelming: There stood the three-tiered waterfalls. I was standing close to the falls at first, which is about less than three meters in length, and approximately nine meters wide.

Edwin and my two other guides, Lorelei and Dodong, then gestured me to follow them. Between the first and second falls is a stream of about 100 meters in length. There are two falcata trunks that lie across them. We used one of the trunks to cross the stream, which was a bit slippery, while we used the second one to keep us balanced. It was on the left bank that one would be able to appreciate the view of the second falls.

The second falls is the tallest and definitely the most breathtaking. It’s close to 14 meters high and nine meters wide. Facing it is a pool that has a depth of nine meters. According to Lorelei, there is a shallow path where the water drops and visitors can cross it or position themselves to feel the thud of the water.

Above the second falls is third one, which is less than three meters in height as well. Edwin said there is actually a fourth falls, which can’t be seen from where the van was parked. Apparently, there’s also a different route to it.

My guides then encouraged me to take a dip in the pool but I couldn’t keep my eyes off the falls.
Lorelei recalled that a group of foreigners go there yearly, who all wait patiently for a rainbow to appear between nine and 11 in the morning. It was bad luck that it didn’t show up when I was there.
With the gradual influx of tourists, not much has been built around Tinuy-an to make it comfortable to them. There is, however, a plan to build a watchtower there. Other than that, city officials think it best to keep the area in its natural state with lots of vegetation, in order for visitors to appreciate its true beauty.

Coastal sightings

On a clear, bright day, Bislig Bay looks enticing for exploration, and exactly what we did when we made our way there the next morning.

Initially, it took us about 45 minutes to reach Hagonoy Island, which is one of the numerous isles and islets that line the coast of Surigao del Sur. It’s a pearl-shaped isle that has an area of one hectare. Vegetation, consisting mostly of coconuts, abounds in the center. Our boat soon landed on a white-powdered beach that is less than 150-meter long. Minutes after our arrival, Edwin and Bong accompanied me to stroll around the isle.

There is a tinge of red in the sand when we encircled the right corner. The opposite side is both rocky and filled with corals. We spotted tiny crabs and thick-bodied starfishes. It took us about 20 minutes to walk the entire coastline. It was lunchtime when we returned. It was also during that time that the water level near the shore gradually receded.

Before returning to the mainland, we passed by a hut on stilts that breeds milkfish (popularly known as bangus). Each succeeding cage showed the growth of the fish.

When we finally had our fill of coastal sightings, everyone was tired and wanted to rest, but we met a certain Dolores Marcojos who invited us for another nearby trip that should not be missed.

View from PICOP

The Paper Industry Corporation of the Philippines (PICOP) is 54 hectares wide. Marcojos toured us around the area and then took us first to the manmade coast way, where visitors can savor the bay up close and feel the sea breeze at the same time. It was a nice view but it was the Bayview Hill not far away that caught my attention.

The entire PICOP compound can be seen from up there. Bislig Bay looks lovely from above while Hagonoy seemed like a speck. Not far away is another islet in the neighboring municipality of Hinatuan. We drove around the village where PICOP employees live. Marcojos recalled monkeys littering the roadsides before but she said that they must have gone into seclusion when people began to arrive.

As I walked around, thoughts about Tinuy-an Falls and all the other sights came to mind again. While I thought I would never return to Bislig while I was on that bumpy road, seeing Tinuy-an changed everything. The long journey is definitely worth it.

(First published in Manila Times on July 18, 2003)

Paete, Laguna

Laguna one more time

My family and I used to go to Laguna during weekends and the hot spring resorts and Mount Makiling are what I remember most from those trips. The province is located just outside Metro Manila, making it a frequent destination of urban dwellers. There are many places of attraction: Hidden Valley, Mount Banahaw, the seven lakes around San Pablo, and Pagsanjan Falls, to name a few.

My fascination for Laguna waned after I visited Ifugao and Zambales provinces and certain parts of Mindanao. Not even a few days' stay at the Los Ba¤os Forest Club at Bay a few years ago rekindled my enthusiasm-until recently when the monsoon rains made Metro Manila a truly bleak place to live in. Dennis had invited me to a trip to Paete. I wasn't very excited, thinking there was nothing new to expect. I was wrong.

Somewhere between the Sierra Madre lies the town of Paete. When we arrived the dark clouds overhead made the mountain range look more imposing. A couple of tricycles took us to Exotik, a restaurant situated on a slope and a perfect spot to appreciate the municipality. The area includes multiple open-air cottages of various sizes (from the topmost cottage, one can view the landscape around Laguna de Bay and the old church bell tower that some residents claim was built during the Spanish era), an artificial waterfall with a stream below that cascades into a lovely pond, lush flora, and assorted animals (check the crowd-drawer-an Indian python named Samantha).

The restaurant is famous for its food (for example: fried breaded frog legs that taste like crisp chicken). I became hooked on the mango juice and told owner Roi Ema so.

But it is Exotik's gorgeous wood designs that show what Paete is most known for. The name of the town comes from the Spanish word "paet" (for "chisel"). The roadsides abound with woodcarving shops and souvenir stores, and even the churches feature carvings that tell stories about the town's heritage.

The stories reveal wood as the soul of Paete, but our visit was anything but wooden. One realizes, of course, that our wood supply is finite. The townsfolk, however, make use of other materials for their carving expertise, and we witnessed it one unpredictable morning.

The clouds indicated that rain was likely but the humidity was quite unbearable when we traversed a narrow road leading to a basketball court hemmed in by a roofed stage and the town hall. Blocks of ice rising to nearly four feet were lined on the court ground, carvers in white T-shirts were gathered around them, and spectators circled the scene. A brief rain shower had many of them dashing to the nearest shelter but they returned shortly afterward. And the Ukit (Carve) Festival began.

Jude busily moved around taking pictures while we stayed put right below the stage to avoid the stifling heat. It was amazing how vigorously the contestants applied themselves to carving those ice blocks under less than ideal conditions. Nearly an hour later we inspected the assorted figures, delighting in the artwork.

We weren't quite through when another batch of contestants began to chip away at new ice blocks.
But nature wasn't kind. A heavy rain fell, dispersing the people from the court area and leaving only a few watching from the stage. Nonetheless, the contestants' determination didn't waver and they were nearly through by the time the sun shone again.

The judging of the entries was marked by intermittent rain. As we expected, the figures of Pegasus and an Indian warrior took top honors.

The next day Inier insisted that we visit Lake Caliraya rain or shine before heading home. We rode past rain-soaked slopes covered by coconut trees and a small bridge nearly inundated by a raging river. The driver of our van might've been so absorbed by our conversation that he overlooked the lake. We arrived at an almost deserted resort and walked on the brick-red soil toward the lake.

Caliraya is man-made, which makes it impressive. I had no idea how huge it actually is. I admired the sight of the pine trees on our left side.

Raymond explored the area east of the resort while we enjoyed the view from one of the sheds close to the shore. Not one of us seemed willing to leave, with no signs of sunny weather ahead and Jude telling us a bittersweet story about someone he knew. If it weren't for the security guard who reminded us that the sheds were off-limits to visitors, we might've stayed longer.

It was raining hard when we dropped in on Mayor Elmoise Afurong preparatory to leaving Paete. The terrace is the best feature in the house. It offers an excellent view of Laguna de Bay, as well as the water lilies below and the mountain range on one side.

The mayor invited us to stay for lunch but we demurred. One of his visitors urged us not to leave, citing reports he had heard that parts of Metro Manila were flooded. We said we would have loved to stay but that we weren't on vacation...

The van was about to enter the South Superhighway again when I wondered what was the most lasting image of our trip. I could not decide if it was Samantha, the Sierra Madre, or the mango juice. Then I remembered our last night at Exotik. The lights put a spark to the place but it was the full moon close to the top of the slope that made the moment sumptuous. How unfortunate that my camera was unable to capture it.

(First published in Philippine Daily Inquirer on December 11, 2002)

Manila to Butuan

Isle watching

Islands are the most distinctive features about the Philippines, and our isles make an interesting study with more than 7,000 of them.

A domestic air flight - assuming you're on the window seat - provides an aerial glimpse of various sizes, the geographical characteristics and attractive qualities of the archipelago.

But it's through sea voyage where one gets to appreciate more the islands' beauty, which I experienced out early this year during ship journey to Davao City that allowed me to view up-close the mountain ranges that shield some of Mindanao's coastal areas.

I took a Manila-Butuan route on my second trip to Mindanao. It was exciting as the first voyage as the SuperFerry traveled through the Visayas, which is made up of a cluster of isles. Majority of our islands are in this region, and as I found out, I was looking for more upon my arrival in Agusan del Norte.

Tuesday morning was a sight to see with a couple of twin peaks that greeted me less than 500 meters away from the ship. I thought that I was looking at Romblon until someone from the crew told me the ferry was in Sibuyan Sea facing one side of Sibuyan Island. The not-so-distant isle at the back of the ship could be Romblon.

Not far from Sibuyan was a tiny isle with about one-fourth of its coast in sand, while the rest was rocky. It looked uninhabited.

My father grew up in Iloilo and he once told me that Boracay and Sicogon are the two well-known beach resorts in the area.

What happened to Boracay is history, while Sicogon's fame turned into virtual obscurity. However, there's more to it: Sicogon is in the northeastern side of Panay and it is one of a bunch of islands in that area.

My father said one island named Gigantes (Giants) has a beach that would rival Boracay's but it can't be developed as it is a bit far away from Panay.

It was nearing lunch time when the SuperFerry navigated the Jintotolo Channel, which was less than 400 meters away from an isle with small mountains and lagoons.

I asked one of the ship's crew if we were passing by Gigantes island as there were numerous isles near the one closest to the ship. He nodded but he corrected me that it's pronounced "Higantes", not "Gihantes".

The sun was oppressive as passengers opted to wait outside for lunch. I picked a shaded area outside to marvel at the scenery.

Admittedly, it was hard to tell if there were fascinating beaches in Gigantes from where I was positioned. An intent searching for nearly an hour of any white feature yielded nothing. A closer look or a top view would saitsy my curiosity but it was the surrounding that kept me interested.

To the distand right of Gigantes and closer to Panay was an isle with no uneven features but it was surrounded by white sand. It may not be shiny white as the one I spotted in Sarangani Strait last January but it might be Sicogon Island.

Closest to Gigantes was an islet that looked like a tip of a submerged mountain. The entire side was rocky and it was hard to imagine any animal dwelling there from the quantity of vegetation atop. Maybe some birds use it as their nest.

It was after lunch when the SuperFerry was at the northern part of Cebu. Just like in Mindanao, much of the land was lush but even, which made it not so attractive.

The Cebu landscape became more interesting to look at when the ship was close to Mactan Island. This is where passengers would notice numerous hills that resemble the Chocolate Hills in Bohol. The sight keeps getting better as the ferry gradually encircled the Mactan Island en route to Cebu City.

Bing Bernabe, whom I shared the cabin room with her family, talked a bit about Mactan. She pointed to me an abandoned hotel and a nearby building where a resort was not far away from it.
She added there are nice beaches on the opposite side of the island. One could seee on the other side of the ship the mountainous side of southwestern leyte in the far distance and the flat outline of Bohol a few kilometers ahead.

Numerous islets are spotted near Mactan. There is a small number that have a rocky side similar to the one besides Gigantes while at the southern end of Mactan is an atoll with greenish dots scattered around.

The area reminded me of Agusan Marsh and the fishermen in that may have set them up but it looked like a miniature version of the Pacific isles.

At the background is Cebu City, where the afternoon sun gave it a glorious look. Numerous buildings standing in the nearby mountain reminded me of Baguio City and a bridge connecting Cebu and Mactan can be seen as the ferry slowly approached the port.

The best about a three-hour stopover in Cebu City is the chance to visit SM City Cebu, which is about 300 meters away from the port.

It was early evening when the ferry left Cebu. Many passengers woke up at 5 AM the next day as the crew conducted a fire drill.

I was still sleepy but excited in looking at the Surigao landscape that looked ethereal when the morning rays of the sun slowly cast a light on the misty mountains and the idyllic place.

We were at the provincial capital of Surigao del Norte but it looked like a small town to me, a comforting thought to someone who wanted to escape the metropolis from time to time.

The ship departed for Agusan del Norte shortly after sunrise. It didn't turn out to be a sunny morning, as dark clouds gradually hovered over some of the islands off the Surigao coast.

The conditions made Dinagat island a surreal sight. I was excited looking at the other isles and the surrounding water, thinking that the Pacific Ocean wasn't far away.

There was a drizzle as I saw the last of the clustered isles.

Just like the western and southern region, the northeastern side of Mindanao is mountainous but the rain and the clouds covering the top of the range made the coast looked imposing than majestic.

Mr. Bernabe caught our attention to the sight of a flying fish less than 50 meters away from the ship. Then we saw a small group of dolphins (lumba-lumba in local term).

She told me Lake Mainit is on the other side of the mountain range we were passing by. It's a sign that we were between Surigao del Norte and Agusan del Norte.

The drizzle stopped when she told me to go the other side of the ship to view Hibok-Hibok volcano in the far distance, a sign that we were about to enter Butuan Bay.

I didn't expect anything new upon arrival since this was my second time to set foot in Mindanao.
But as we came closer to the light green mountains in Nasipit, I was surprised to find out that the ferry wasn't docking in Butuan City and I don't see any familiar faces to fetch me.

I have some apprehension on commuting from Nasipit to Butuan City to Agusan del Sur for the first time, but Miss Bernabe doused my fears as she insisted I join their family jeepney where they took me to the Butuan bus terminal.

I learned something upon boarding an air-conditioned bus to San Francisco, Agusan del Sur: every travel offers an array of discoveries.

It made me wondered what our other isles looked like before my attention shifted to the mountains ahead of the national highway.

(First published on Business World Weekender on November 8-9, 2002)

Prosperidad, Agusan del Sur

The hidden wonders of Tugonan Falls

After spending more than two days on the Super Ferry en route to Davao City, I couldn’t blame Jocelyn for falling asleep during our evening journey to Agusan del Sur. I felt tired from the long trip too; but I couldn’t close my eyes because both of us were setting foot inMindanao for the first time and I couldn’t help feeling excited about it.

Not much can be seen at nighttime, even if Fe Tan-Cebrian, Provincial Tourism Operating Officer (PTOO) of Agusan del Sur, told us at one point that we were passingMount Diwalwal. She also warned us in advance not to expect any beach, as Mindanao’s largest province is landlocked. But we found out later that Agusan del Sur has plenty of attractive sites to offer.

Mountains seem to surround most of the province’s boundary, which shields Agusan del Sur from typhoons. But a typical days isn’t complete without a drizzle or heavy rainfall. As many of the locals told us, there are two climates in their province - wet and very wet. This makes the southern region look like a catch basin, as rainwater goes down from the mountains. Flooding is not a rare occurrence.

The Agusan Marsh is most popular to outsiders but Ma’am Fe claims there are other spots that can match some of our country’s best tourist sites. It’s logical to assume that lots of mountains and water means there are waterfalls that are waiting to be discovered. The one we visited is located in Prosperidad, which is the provincial capital; but just like Surigao City, this municipality looks rustic and idyllic like many of the towns we passed by.

It was a sunny Friday morning when we first dropped by the town hall to meet the municipal mayor and his Tourism Council staff who accompanied Jocelyn and I toTugonan Falls . We were both surprised to find out that we would be riding on motorcycles, which is a form of public transportation in some parts of this province. It was my first time to ride on one, and it was perfect for the next adventure that we were just about to undertake.

We first dropped by a gas station a kilometer away from the town hall to fill the gas tanks. My right shoulder stiffened from having my right hand hold the back handle, so I chose to put my arms around Jocelyn during the succeeding minutes of our trip; she was sandwiched between the driver and I. We next stopped by a small carinderia to buy some lunch. While waiting for our orders, I started at theGibong Bridge, which looked like it was made as a shortcut to the Philippine Normal University located on the other side of the Binaba River.

After packing our food, there was no stopping from going to Tugonan Falls. The journey via motorcycle is an adventure by itself, as we passed by partly constructed roads, rice fields, coconut trees, stretches of falcata (used for making paper, pencils and toothpicks), and a few toog trees, which is only found in Agusan del Sur. I even encountered a few motorcycles loaded with five persons (including the driver). The sun was getting brighter but I didn’t mind, as the strong gush of wind made the whole voyage fun.

After about 20 kilometers, we entered a narrow, muddy road that is approximately a couple of kilometers long. The terrain was uneven and there were many turns. I imagined we were part of the latest episode of “Survivor”. It was almost an hour when we reached Barangay San Lorenzo, the community nearest toTugonan Falls.

The place was grassy, the houses were quite scattered, and the domesticated pigs and chickens were bigger compared to the ones I see in Metro Manila. We rested under some shade beside a sari-sari store, and waited for our guide to take us toTugonan Falls . He turned out be middle-aged, wearing a white, barong-like polo, back pants, and calf-high boots. He brought a kid who turned out to be the one who would lead us. He said that on a straight path, the distance between Barangay San Lorenzo andTugonan Falls is three kilometers long. But that wasn’t the case.

We entered a terrain that was both vegetative and uneven. The path was muddy and slippery and a couple of the Tourism Council staff opted to walk barefoot. My Nike running shoes were soon covered with brown mud and I had to hold on to some branches or partly-cut trees, as I nearly slipped on a number of occasions.

Our first stopover was a barren field. I felt like my waistline shrank by about an inch. We asked the kid how far we were from the site and he answered, “Not much”. In provincial lingo, that means we have a long way to go, as rural folks are accustomed to walking long distances.

After resting for about 20 minutes, we entered another vegetative region. I don’t know if it was the mud or the slightly-steep path that made me breathed heavily. I was about to request for another rest stop when we heard a loud rush of water. Our guide said that we weren’t far away. The last few meters were the most difficult part of the trek, as we slowly descended towards a rocky stream. The sight of the falls a few meters in front of us was an ample reward for our difficulties.

Tugonan Falls is about 40 to 50 feet in height; and below is a stream that leads to another falls, this one about five to seven feet, that cascades into a pool of emerald green water. Our guide climbed up a bit and carefully walked closer to the falls. He encouraged us to join him but we were all too tired to move and find out how deep the pool is. I just stood with my aching feet getting soothed by the rush of the cool water.

I looked around and noticed that above the falls where tall tress where wild ferns hang suspended in the air. I got the impression thatTugonan Falls is located deep in the heart of a small forest. Richard Sombrio, who has been our frequent companion in most of our visits to Agusan’s attractive sites, remarked that monkeys are found in the trees here. I didn’t hear the familiar sound of their voices though, probably because there were scared of our presence. The only animal I encountered was a dragonfly, which hovered above us for some seconds. It was only about an inch long but its bright blue-violent wings caught my attention. It added a bit of sparkle to that place.

After we were through with our lunch and a few photo shots, it was time to leave. Climbing up was as hard as going down - we had quite a struggle crossing over a fallen log. After the ascent, we descended down a barren slope that led to a stream. A bridge is located above it but it is only made of three bamboo poles - two for crossing and one for a handle to keep you from falling. No one knew how fragile the bridge was so we crossed it one at a time.

A few minutes after we passed the bridge, a light drizzle began to falls. I panicked a bit, as we were all aware that it would make the muddy path more slippery. It was a good thing that it only lasted for a while but we had a tough time struggling to climb up a muddy slope. There was a house and shade at the top and we took another rest. I took a last at the small forest whereTugonan Falls is found. It was a great site but Richard said that not many could go there because only the adventurous could trek the path.

Another rest led us to another tiring trek. Jocelyn was so desperate to get out of the muddy trail that she shouted her frustration a few times. She was so tired that some of the motorcycle drivers who joined in our adventure aided her a couple of times. One of the female staff of the Tourism Council asked me if I was sick, as she couldn’t help but noticed the ragged breathing that showed my exhaustion. I told her that I could still hold on, as we weren’t far away from Barangay San Lorenzo.

It was close to four in the afternoon when we made it back. We went to the nearest water pump (poso) to scrub off the mud on our feet and legs. I felt so high that I didn’t mind holding on to the back handle when we rode the motorcycle again. We all thought our adventure for that day was over but we were wrong. As we were passing by the narrow, muddy road, our motorcycle slipped and we fell on a small pond of muddy water. Jocelyn tried hard to keep herself calm while I couldn’t help but feel amused especially at the sight of the approaching water buffalo (carabao). But it was a smooth ride from then on.

The afternoon sun was still bright when we rode back over Gibong Bridge. Ma’am Fe was there to fetch us and she noticed how our faces got tanned from the adventure. She said that we were scheduled to travel on theBinaba River and go to Binaba Falls . I had to tell her evening was approaching so we decided to call it a day. There will be a next time, and I thought that our trip toTugonan Falls was so memorable that I will reminisce about it during the coming rainy days.

(First published in Manila Times on October 11, 2002)

San Francisco, Agusan del Sur

Enchanted on Diwata



Mountains surround most of Agusan del Sur but between the municipalities of San Francisco and Rosario lies Mount Diwata. It stands apart from the nearby mountain range visible near Rosario, and it’s impossible to keep one’s eyes off it as one travels on the National Highway in Barangay Patin-ay.


Diwata stands close to 2,000 feet and offers a number of enticing features to those who dare explore it. For one, there is the Boys Scout camping site, now named theDatu Lipus Macapandong Eco-Tourism Park, where visitors can both enjoy the cool waters of the mountain and be mesmerized by a view of its summit. Some residents of San Francisco claim that trekkers will be rewarded with the discovery of a waterfall, of which there is an abundance in Mindanao ’s largest province. There is also talk about sect members living somewhere up the mountain, and whose church is supposedly shaped like Noah’sArk.


Imagine what other discoveries can be made if one goes by the legend of Diwata being a giant’s burial ground. It isn’t hard to visualize. Diwata actually bears a slight semblance toMount Makiling, and its strong potential as a major tourist draw of Agusan del Sur is the reason why Governor Adolph Edward Plaza launched the “Stairway to Heaven” project during the recent Naliyagan Festival. The project involves the construction of concrete stairs and resting shed for those who want to immerse themselves in the mountain’s beauty. That is the provincial government’s vision for the future, but for now, first-time visitors have to rely on those who have climbed Diwata - and this is where the San Francisco Mountaineering Club (SFMC) comes into the picture.


The SFMC, formed last summer, is headed by Juancho Vicente. There are so many mountains in Diwata, but what better way for the group to mark Agusan del Sur’s founding anniversary than climbing Diwata?


Mist is covering the Government Center when I arrived in San Francisco one cold Saturday morning. There are 25 of us in the expedition, and our starting point is a small forest of palm oil trees along the San Francisco-Rosario boundary. We are divided into two. I joined the first group.


The gradually ascending path is easily distinguished from the grassy surroundings that we pass through. The view of the palm oil trees below is quite breathtaking. At halfway point we can still see the trees, but not the second group. After waiting for nearly half an hour, we decided not to tarry any longer (our leader said the two groups will meet at the Philcom building, which is near the summit).


Now the climb has turned steep, and coconut trees, shrubs and grass have replaced the palm trees below. A few meters before we reached Philcom, some of us attempted to contact the other group through a walkie-talkie, mobile phones, even shouts - without success. We have yet to reach the top but the second group is already making its own adventure below.


After another rest period of almost 30 minutes, we headed for the Philcom building, which we can see right above us. An exhausting climb of about 15 minutes took us almost to the top. Ecstatic at getting that far, I turned around to behold my reward - and discovered that clouds completely blocked the view.


But gradually, the clouds dispersed to reveal the Agusan landscape. The view kept getting better and I was almost bursting with pride at completing the trek to witness it, but my pride was quickly deflated when another group made up mostly of women and children ambled towards the Philcom building. Our leader asked one of the women if they met the second group on the way. Negative.


Our leader decided to stay at the building and wait, and 12 of us decided to proceed to the summit. Now we were in the hands of an old man named Jeffrey who was clad in a long-sleeved sweater and jogging pants? Myself? I wore a sleeveless undershirt and shorts. It was only at Diwata’s peak that I realized why Mang Jeffrey was dressed that way.


We were unable to see the clouds at the top because it was heavily forested, but we felt a slight chill. We walked on a ridge about 12 inches wide. I took note of the lawaan trees we passed, as well as a number of interesting plants such as romblon and rattan.


The romblon plant appears identical to a pineapple plant. Mang Jeffrey told me it’s used for making mats (banig). Then he directed our attention to a plain-looking plant, which, he warned, will make us itch on contact. Looks can really be deceiving.


But apart from these and an eye-catching butterfly with a red-colored body and black wings, our surroundings did not serve to fully distract us from the narrow ridge we treaded. It was snake-like, and I can’t recall how many turns we made. Mang Jeffrey occasionally hacked tree branches and leaves to make our trek less difficult.


A number of times we went down one ridge and climbed another. It was during those times that I chose to inch downward, letting my buttocks push slowly so not to suddenly slide off. A memorable moment came up when we came upon a fallen wood. Mang Jeffrey said he can’t tell the depth below, so he advised us to find another trail. But Father Gabby said we should go forward for experience’s sake.


In the end, I find out that it wasn’t as deep as Mang Jeffrey thought. One of us smiled a clownish smile when I took a photo of the rest who struggled to make it to the other side of the wood.

Our water supply runs out. After we made another descent, Mang Jeffrey pointed us to a stream nearby. He positioned his left hand just below the water’s surface to filter out the bits of earth. It took only a few seconds to fill each of our bottles. I gulped the water, savoring the coolness and ignoring the slight earthen taste.

Another upward thrust led us to a grassy field. Mang Jeffrey said we were at the nape of Diwata. We have crossed the summit for almost two hours. The clear path was before us again, making me quite unmindful of where I stepped. At one point in the path that is covered with tall grass, my right foot strayed and I nearly fell off.


We reached a partly built house around noon. Mang Jeffrey told us that this is where we should take a long break before proceeding.


While we ate, my eyes feasted on the awesome sight - the mountainous terrain of Surigao del Sur, the Philippine Sea and Turtle Island. But dark clouds gradually moved towards where we were, signaling that we should get moving.


It was close to 1 PM when we began our descent. We saw a clear path once more, but Mang Jeffrey said he knows of a short cut. We have no idea that it would turn out to be our most unforgettable experience on Diwata.


We detoured from the path and get reacquainted with the ridge. But I noticed that Mang Jeffrey cut down more branches and leaves more often than before, belying his claim that he passed this trail before. When I told him this, he said this is what mountain climbing is all about and I am unfit for it. I was on the verge of retorting that it wasn’t my fault if the LRT and MRT are the only places I climb, but I bite my tongue and instead focused on reaching the base.


It was also at this point that I didn’t mind my skin getting in contact with romblons and rattans (I can withstand blisters, but not a fall). But I wasn’t spared slipping off many times).

We negotiated a step downhill path that led us to a stream glistening from the shiny black basalt rocks underneath. From here, Mang Jeffrey said, we would reach the base in the shortest time.
But the stream descends sharply and the rushing waters do nothing for our balance despite our spiked shoes. There were no plants to hold on to. I was close to Mang Jeffrey during most of the trek, which means that I was in front of the pack most of the time. It was at the stream that I became fed up with being front man, so I let Father Gabby and his five young wards go down first.

We forged ahead, carefully choosing the rocks to step on. At one instance, Mang Jeffrey put down a big tree branch for us to walk on. In one area, some of us chose to crawl on the grassy sides. It was during these moments that Mang Jeffrey positioned himself below us and volunteered to serve as a human bridge to ease our difficulty. I admit that the act erased whatever animosity has built up towards the old man. Furthermore, Father Gabby constantly kept our spirits up with inspirational remarks peppered with scientific observations.


It was part 4 PM when we reached the base. I was surprised that I still have the energy left to walk a few hundred meters. The back of my shorts has been ripped off, but everyone was too tired to notice. My legs and right shoulders were blistered, but I wasn’t bothered.

We neither saw the waterfall nor met the sect members, but there are enough reasons for climbing Diwata again. I thanked Mang Jeffrey for his efforts but I didn’t tell him what was on my mind - I’ll be glad to take him to any LRT or MRT station in case he visits Metro Manila.



(First published in Philippine Daily Inquirer on September 29, 2002)